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The Hobo Car
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Meat in a Wine Glass S 

Meat in a Wine Glass 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Pon & Martinov, 2002
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: JFM on Mar 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The Hobo Car, as seen from slightly down-canyon. ...


Start under and left of a huge flake with a few face moves to a first bolt, then work some sort of magic to get above said flake, gaining the 2nd bolt. A few thin moves and another bolt come next, then a couple of good jugs, then onto some 5.easy, water-streaked, walk-up slab and 2 more (homemade) hangers. Finish at a single coldshut.

Figuring out how to deal with the flake and then the ensuing thin face sequence are the two distinct cruxes.


The most obvious feature of The Hobo Car is a large roof about midway down its length. Meat in a Wine Glass is uphill maybe 30 feet from the roof. The large flake and its nasty OW gap are easy to find.

This route is the leftmost line of bolts on the rock.

Walk around climber's left and uphill to access the coldshut for TR. Reverse this to walk-off.


There are five bolts and a coldshut.

Gillett's guide suggests slinging a tree to back-up the coldshut, but, as of 3/17/12, that tree has been uprooted and is resting on its side with some large, loose rocks perched next to it. There are some other trees farther back from the edge, but you'll good length of webbing to reach them.

The PG-13 rating is due to some unpleasant fall/landing potential (between the first two bolts and then again between bolts #2 and #3).

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