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Meat Hooks 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Robert Warren
Page Views: 3,668
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Oct 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Ryan showing off his mitts after onsighting Meat H...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A stunning line located between "Right Arm" and "Sinestra", Meat Hooks is one of the most continuous fist corners I've had the pleasure to climb. It is protected by a hell of a lot of #3.5 camalots, #3's are tipped out! Start up through a short off width section (40'), crank through 130' of fists, pull a roof (the only spot #3's work well), and grab the chains. You most definitely need two ropes. A must do wide crack experience!!!

Protection 

1-2bd #2's, 4-5bd #3's, 8-10bd #3.5's, 2-3bd #4's, and 1-2bd #4.5's


Photos of Meat Hooks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the Meat Hooks dihedral
BETA PHOTO: the Meat Hooks dihedral

Comments on Meat Hooks Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 5, 2017
By Anthony Everhart
Nov 30, 2003

I wouldn't say this is a fist climb. Burly wide hands for me. I would bring only 1 4.5 and only one 4 camalots. Lots of 3.5 friends and then tight 4 friends. I had 6 size 4 friends and had to backclean a scary lot (had already blew the onsight down low) so get lots of 4's. Good chain anchor, thank you whoever did that, can't be seen from the ground. My 50m trail line barly touched down. True Indian Creek climb!A. Everhart
By Wayne Harney
Jan 5, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This climb is a full body belt sander! The flare at the bottom seemed 11ish to me.
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Dec 16, 2011

Who owns 10 BD #3.5s and will you meet me in IC (actually, I have one so you only need to bring nine)? How do BD #4s fit?
By slim
Administrator
Dec 16, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

they don't. you can barely get a #4 at one spot about midway up, and possibly 1 up around the roof at the top. you can use a bunch of really tipped out #3's along the way, but it is a lot better to have 3.5s/4friends. when my wife did it she had 9 pieces that size, which worked out about right.
By AndyBG
Nov 30, 2012

How about #4 C4's? Close enough to the old BD 3.5's?
By slim
Administrator
Nov 30, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Nope.
By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

If #1's are perfect hands than its a fist climb (noted in the description), otherwise it's a beautifuly long and strenuous off-hands corner. There are 2 sections that allow a new BD #4, I would take 2 of them.
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Contrary to what is written above, #4 C4s are a nice tight fit throughout the climb - I bumped one for a long way having only a couple other cams that fit. #4 friends are perfect but the #4 C4s fit for at least a 70' stretch of the climb.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 10, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

hmmm, i wonder if the pillar has shifted some? the last time i did it, maybe 2010(?) you could get a #4 C4 in a slight pod about midway up (crushed in there and not very deep). also you could get a #4 up near the very top. the main dihedral was all super tight 3.5 camalot (4 friend), or really tipped out #3 camalots (3.5 friends).

super route, either way!
By Bowie Pearson
From: Portland, OR
Nov 30, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Agree with Brandon above - lots of C4 #4 placements to be had. For me (a #1 hands gal), this was mostly fists/arm bars, but the feet are perfect the whole way and that roof at the top is amazing!!!
By grog m aka Greg McKee
Mar 20, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

When the guide book says wide hands it means it! I was using super cupped hands because my fists just wouldnt quite fit. I used lots of #3 camalots and 2# fours.
By Jeff Scheuerell
May 5, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

All this blah blah blah about 3s or 3.5s or 4s??? Had me out searchen for more 3.5s. Walked around the campground trying to borrow 3.5s. Dude told me 3s and 4s were fine, so I tried with what I had. #3s were great for most of the pitch. 4s were very tight and kinda a pain to get in. #3.5s were good for a lot of it but tight for much. With all the big cams I was glad to protect the start with a few cams before things got real. An old 4 then a new 4 low then 3s or 3.5s most of the way with a 4 up higher then more 3s and finish with a new 5 if you want to drag it to the top, would have been nice up there but not sure I would drag it along. Awesome climb!

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