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Meanderthon 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on May 14, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Meanderthon is the line up the middle. The red-lin...

Description 

Don't be fooled by the bolts on this long slabby climb, it is not a sport climb. It is a long, mentally challenging climb around lichen covered bulges while dodging flaky sections of rock. Moving left after the second bolt is on the scariest rock and takes the most concentration. The rest feels pretty solid, but the distance between protection points will keep you focused. A more direct vartiation is to go up and left after the first bolt, and then follow the ramps up to the third bolt. A few marginal tri-cam placements could break-up this run-out, but a cool head is best.

Location 

Located around the corner (east) of Lichen Fun Slide - Left. On the left side of the slab is a chimney system with poot slings at the top under a large chock stone. To the right is a lichen filled chute. Start near the chimney system and follow the easy ramp up and right. At the top of the ramp is the intermediary belay ledge. From here, climb directly up to a bolt before heading left into some bulges. find/clip the last bolt and head for the top along the path of least resistance/best rock.

Protection 

3 good 3/8" bolts, widely spaced. There is a good piton and gear placements on the starting ramp. The second bolt is 15' above a belay ledge which can be used to top-rope the lower section, or climbs to the right. Above the third bolt are a few marginal placements of small TCUs or tri-cams. Long runners are essential unless you have a fondness for rope-drag. A good two bolt anchor exists at the top. descen by a two-rope rappel, or two single rope rappekls using the intermediary belay ledge.


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