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Selfish Wall
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Mean Black Dog 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jack Cody
Season: All
Page Views: 906
Submitted By: Martin Harris on Apr 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Close up notice the 2 bolts

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

start up the 5.10- finger crack. About 10 feet up reach left and clip a bolt with a runner. Comit to dictate face moves trending up and left to second bolt. Gain a stance place 2 green c3's and fire up the arête slapping compression problem. Step left and fire up fingers to hands up to the anchor.

Location 

A few routes left of solo east. Look for the dark varnished rock with two black bolts.

Protection 

Quick draws a runner and tiny gear through hands. Probably a single set from fingers to hands and a few extra micro peices.
(Note the crux can not be aided as the crack goes away for for the boulder problem)


Photos of Mean Black Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The plaque
The plaque
Rock Climbing Photo: The climb
BETA PHOTO: The climb

Comments on Mean Black Dog Add Comment
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By Jack C
From: Aspen, CO
Oct 27, 2014

Such a great route and what a gift it was to get the fa. I walked by it for years every time expecting to see that a go getter has already established this thing. I don't know of any one else that has tried it yet. I would love to hear what other have to say. It was a hard route to rate. I would guess it's around 12b but who knows. It's pretty different than the average creek climb, a total new wave crackfu climb. The rock is bullet hard and the crux is well protected with double green c3's. The big air if you blow the crux is super clean. Trust me... Not to be missed if you like this kind of climbing.
By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2015

If you go up to the top of the block on the next route to the right (with a little OW grunt), you can TR this thing. My buddy Lee thought solid 12 to 12+. whew.
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Mar 30, 2016

ya, more like .12+
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Apr 20, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Nice find Jack! I thought this was a brilliant route with thought provoking climbing and an Air Swedenesque crux. Mid 5.12 felt about right to me. Best route at the wall for sure! Oh and this route shares the same start with Tag Team.

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