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Meadow River Gorge

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Lower Meadow 
South Side Crags 
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Meadow River Gorge Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14966, -80.92704 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 116,641
Administrators: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: camhead on Jul 15, 2009
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Driving to the south side crags of the Meadow. I ...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Meadow River Gorge is the "Wild West" of the NRG area: active development, swimming holes, locals tearing around on ATVs, backcountry camping, and it really has a more back-of-beyond feeling than the more manicured New River Gorge. Overall, the rock here tends to be more featured than that of Endless Wall, making for more moderate sport routes. There's really something here for everyone: sunny winter crags like First Buttress, moderate sport areas like The Other Place, and some of the best traditional crack lines in the entire region.

Getting There 

See the individual sub sections for detailed directions. All of this area is north of Fayetteville, and south of Summersville.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

243 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',33],['3 Stars',118],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',26],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',11],['5.9',20],['5.10',52],['5.11',56],['5.12',68],['5.13',25],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Meadow River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Meadow River Gorge:
King Lichen Me   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
By the Way, I Did Your Mom   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 60'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Chimpanzabubbas   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Supermoon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Coffindaffer's Dream   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Instant Gratification   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Side Crags : Area 51
Flaming Pellets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Vanished   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Cat Food   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Toxic Hueco   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
Skull In Hole   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Schneezal   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Meadow : Second Buttress
Starry   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Low Brow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Depth Charge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Side Crags : The Other Place
Lamda   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   Upper Meadow : First Buttress
The Prow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Meadow : Third Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Meadow River Gorge

Featured Route For Meadow River Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred Gomez warming up on Push

Push 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  West Virginia : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
This route is classic! It's worth coming to this crag for this route alone! Start by climbing up a blocky section of rock to reach the first bolt. From here, climb straight up making some tricky moves to reach the obvious hueco at the 4th bolt. Next, make a traverse right for about 6 feet to reach a vertical seam and eventually a really good stance. Continue up and then make a long easy traverse back left to clip the 5th bolt. It looks a bit run out, but it's a clean fall and the hard...[more]   Browse More Classics in West Virginia

Photos of Meadow River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....
Blanco loving the ride back from The Other Place.....
Rock Climbing Photo: The Meadow River.
The Meadow River.

Comments on Meadow River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2013
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
By Cocoapuffs 1000
Nov 23, 2013
What's the deal here? Why was the road blocked in the first place?
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 23, 2013
Because it's private property, and the owner's insurance company told them to tighten down on the trespassing. We are hoping that something can be worked out in the future.
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Mar 2, 2014
All sorts of awesome new routes, kudos to the bolters.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Mar 5, 2014
Don't forget that bolts cost money and without organizations like NRAC we wouldn't have all of those awesome new lines. Make sure to donate some money to them on there website here, newriverclimbing.net/.

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