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Index Air Force T 
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Making the little ducks quack T,TR 
Meadow and Spicer T 
Message of Love S 
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Sweets for Manuel T 
Them T 

Meadow and Spicer 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Darryl Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro, Jon Nelson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,323
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Sep 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Overview shot of the three pitches of Meadow and S...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 starts with a stick-clip (see stick lying nearby) to the first bolt. Either pull up on the rope to reach the ledge or do a short V2-3 (5.11c) sequence. From the ledge, follow the corner up to the roof (~10a), go over the roof (~10a/b), face climb up to the crack, and climb the wide crack (~8+/9) to a large, slightly downsloping ledge with a chained 2-bolt anchor.

P2 starts up the corner just above the anchor, and goes up to the crack above on the headwall. The crux move is about 5.8, getting into the crack. The crack, which is finger-sized with hand pods every few feet, goes to a nice flat ledge with a two-bolt chained anchor.

P3 goes up the short flake/corner system to the top (~5.6). There is no metallic anchor up here, just a bunch of trees. But the view and setting is wonderful.

Location 

Follow trail rightward along base of wall to highest point. Look for the bolt about 12-feet up.

Protection 

Small wired nuts to fist-sized cams. It's useful to have a small brass nut (e.g., RP #5) for the first piece off the ledge on P1.


Photos of Meadow and Spicer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack at top of P1.
Crack at top of P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving past the bouldery crux at the base.
Moving past the bouldery crux at the base.
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof on pitch 1.
The roof on pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: From below, on the first ascent.
From below, on the first ascent.

Comments on Meadow and Spicer Add Comment
Show which comments
By michal
From: Everett WA
Sep 23, 2011

Awesome route that has cool granite features, even has a hueco
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 28, 2013

Named after a famous Index climber's pet ducks.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 20, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  V2-3 5+

I don't know what to say about the start. I considered trying free climbing. Can't imagine how that could be V-2-3. But it was pretty easy to aid. Fun SPICY climbing above. Pulling through the roof was pretty scary moving above the bolt with continued small holds, but the OW was fun.
A nice extension is to wander up the now destroyed by rock fall slope to climb Pork Chop Torpedo 10b.
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  V4 6B

Climbed this route today. I have no idea how to do the start, we cleaned off the features a little bit and it still felt way harder than V2-V3. The rest of P1 is a little dirty and spicy but lots of fun. The route goes through some really cool features. From the top of P1 you can go left into Little Fire for the spicy finishing pitches or do the fun, surprisingly clean, finishing pitch.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Apr 4, 2016

Thanks Nate.
Perhaps it is harder than V3. I haven't done much outdoor bouldering and was just guessing based on the conversion to YDS. It involves slopers, so might depend on the temperature and amount of lichen.

That's good to know about connecting with Little Fire.

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