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McYetta's Loaf

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McYetta's Loaf Rock Climbing 


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Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Mar 19, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: Hidden Tower (left) and McYetta's Loaf (right) as ...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This butte is often hidden behind (northwest of) Hidden Tower when viewed from the Valley Loop Road. It has fairly long north and south faces, but cuts a slender profile when viewed from the southeast, especially on the land bridge that connects with Hidden Tower. It is remarkably devoid of weaknesses, lacking any real crack systems that run full height. The one existing route involves a lengthy bolt ladder, and it looks like any other lines would involve lots of drilling too.

The setting is remote for the VOG, as it is the formation that's furthest from the loop road. The hike is pleasant though, following a meandering wash of Halgaito shale (although it sure seemed like some type of limestone).

Getting There 

Drive the VOG Loop Road for about 11 miles from Highway 163, about 3 miles beyond Eagle Plume Tower. There is a hill a short ways before the Lady in a Bathtub is passed. At the bottom of the hill is a large wash composed of dark shale (limestone ?). Park off of the Loop Road in the wash and hike northwest up it for about 1.5 miles until you're below Hidden Tower and McYetta's Loaf. The wash is generally hard-surfaced and decent walking, although it meanders a good bit. Cut out of the wash and follow the best looking path up the talus cone to the base of the Loaf. We went up to the land bridge connecting Hidden Tower and McYetta's Loaf as it avoided the short choss bands ringing the hill directly below the Loaf.

Climbing Season

For the Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat area.

Weather station 7.5 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in McYetta's Loaf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for McYetta's Loaf:
Plaid Skirted School Girls    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 160'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in McYetta's Loaf

Featured Route For McYetta's Loaf
Rock Climbing Photo: The 2nd pitch.

Plaid Skirted School Girls 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1  Utah : Moab Area : ... : McYetta's Loaf
The route starts on the narrow west prow of the formation. It consists of two short pitches separated by a massive ledge system. P1--Start up a short OW to squeeze to a stance, follow an OW to hand crack in a dihedral to an awkward mantle onto the large, rubble-strewn ledge. The rock is decent, but there are some hollow chunks to beware of. There are two drilled pins on a boulder about 20' back on the ledge for an anchor. (5.8, 70')P2--Scramble up to the ledge beneath the steep headwall. Start u...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

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