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McQuirks Mountain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.7 In Slippers T 
After Midnight T 
Agent Smith T 
Ain't Nobody Here But Us Chickens T 
Anatomy Lesson T 
Big Moe T 
Biomechanics T 
Blackcrack T 
Blackfly T 
Blue Pill, The T 
Boogers T 
Combat Math T 
Crack Machine, The T 
Dance Platform T 
Detour T 
Dodging Bullets T 
Dumpster Diving T,TR 
Eat Moe T 
Emerald City T 
Fake Right - Go Left T 
Fifty Mission Cap T 
Five Easy Pieces T 
Follow the White Rabbit T 
Four Eyed Moe T 
Fred's Book T,TR 
Gunsmoke and The Truth T 
Hallway, The T 
Harvest T 
Have At 'Er T 
I'm Too Drunk For This T 
Incisor T 
Jaws T 
Kraft Dinner T,TR 
Let The Good Times Roll T 
Life Is So Peculiar T 
Little Moe T 
Live Simply T,TR 
Lobster Claw T,TR 
Magic X T 
Mankey Rack TR 
Merlin T 
Morpheus T 
Mr. Anderson T 
Neutral Tribe T 
Nightbird T 
Nightbird Direct T 
No Moe T 
Nose, The T 
Octopus Ink T 
One Night in Copenhagen T 
Oracle, The T 
PB and Jam T,TR 
Red Pill, The T 
Salad Fingers T 
Scars and Stripes T 
Space Between, The T 
Steve French T 
Taco or Westy T,TR 
Take A Shower T,TR 
Take Me To Your Leader T 
Trinity  T 
Trolley Tracks T 
Up Yours  T 
What's The Use in Getting Sober T 
Will Belay For Food T,TR 
Zen T 

McQuirks Mountain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 45.18685, -66.85277 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,624
Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: gph on Oct 22, 2014
Forecast:
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Description 

McQuirks Mountain is an east facing granite cliff that has excellent rock quality and easy access from a secondary highway. This recently developed area has many routes to choose from. The cliff offers gear protected crack climbing with a 200 foot tall center face and slightly shorter flanks left and right. Most routes are two pitches with bolted belays. The grades range from 5.5 to 5.12. Gear is generally good throughout the cliff. A single rack of nuts and cams to 3" should work well on everything here but it is nice to have doubles and a 4" piece. A 60 meter rope will work fine but a 70 is handy for descending some routes. The shortest climb is about 35 feet while the longest is a 3 pitch link up covering about 270 feet of vertical ground. The best time to climb here is in early spring and from August through October. During these times the bugs are either at a minimum or non existent. There is great camping just below the base of the cliff with water sources nearby. There are numerous rappel stations from the top and also an easy walk off north and south. The rock is generally very high quality Devonian granite, however, as with most new areas you may come across some loose crystals here and there.
You will find most amenities close by in the town of St. George - gas, groceries, beer, restaurants, hardware, etc.

Getting There 

This cliff is located about 9 kilometers north of the town of St. George. From points east of St. George turn off highway 1 at exit 56 or exit 52 if you are coming from points west. If you took exit 56 head south toward the Tim Horton's/Ultramar then turn right onto Main Street after the Subway Restaurant. Continue west toward the town of St. George. Just before you enter town turn right onto Riverview Avenue which is also highway 770. If you took exit 52 head south to Brunswick street then east toward town and Main St. After going through the town turn left onto Riverview Avenue. From the intersection of Main and Riverview Drive (hwy 770) travel north for 8 km. The cliff will come into view at about kilometer 7. After house # 643 start counting gravel pullouts on your left. Turn off the highway and park at the 4th pull out. Some people park just off the highway and some park on the woods road. Its your call but please park your vehicle off to the side and don't block in any other cars. Walk south on a straight, flat, road which is an abandoned rail line for about 600 meters until you reach a trail heading west (right) through a cedar swale that is marked with green flagging tape. Continue through the swale then up a short rise for about 300 meters and you will be at the base of the cliff. Approach time: 10 to 15 minutes.

Climbing Season

For the New Brunswick area.

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

66 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',22],['5.7',14],['5.8',10],['5.9',9],['5.10',8],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in McQuirks Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for McQuirks Mountain:
Follow the White Rabbit   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
I'm Too Drunk For This   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Magic X   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Neutral Tribe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Fifty Mission Cap   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Combat Math   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in McQuirks Mountain

Featured Route For McQuirks Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: The left side of Main Wall.  Crack Machine on the ...

The Crack Machine 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  North America : Canada : ... : McQuirks Mountain
Pitch 1: Start on the far left side of the Main Wall. down near the very bottom of the long high angle slab. From the left edge of the wall gain a short right trending ramp that leads to a ledge (a harder more direct start has yet to be done). From here ascend a series of cracks that follow the left side of the face to a small ledge and 2 bolt anchor.Pitch 2: Step left and move up toward a pair of handcracks. Enjoy the stellar jamming through this section then move up through easier climbing to...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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Rock Climbing Photo: McQuirks Mountain
McQuirks Mountain

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