McQuirks Mountain Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Close up showing all the walls.
McQuirks Mountain is an east facing granite cliff that has excellent rock quality and easy access from a secondary highway. This recently developed area has many routes to choose from. The cliff offers gear protected crack climbing with a 200 foot tall center face and slightly shorter flanks left and right. Most routes are two pitches with bolted belays. The grades range from 5.5 to 5.12. Gear is generally good throughout the cliff. A single rack of nuts and cams to 3" should work well on everything here but it is nice to have doubles and a 4" piece. A 60 meter rope will work fine but a 70 is handy for descending some routes. The shortest climb is about 35 feet while the longest is a 3 pitch link up covering about 270 feet of vertical ground. The best time to climb here is in early spring and from August through October. During these times the bugs are either at a minimum or non existent. There is great camping just below the base of the cliff with water sources nearby. There are numerous rappel stations from the top and also an easy walk off north and south. The rock is generally very high quality Devonian granite, however, as with most new areas you may come across some loose crystals here and there.
You will find most amenities close by in the town of St. George - gas, groceries, beer, restaurants, hardware, etc.
This cliff is located about 9 kilometers north of the town of St. George. From points east of St. George turn off highway 1 at exit 56 or exit 52 if you are coming from points west. If you took exit 56 head south toward the Tim Horton's/Ultramar then turn right onto Main Street after the Subway Restaurant. Continue west toward the town of St. George. Just before you enter town turn right onto Riverview Avenue which is also highway 770. If you took exit 52 head south to Brunswick street then east toward town and Main St. After going through the town turn left onto Riverview Avenue. From the intersection of Main and Riverview Drive (hwy 770) travel north for 8 km. The cliff will come into view at about kilometer 7. After house # 643 start counting gravel pullouts on your left. Turn off the highway and park at the 4th pull out. Some people park just off the highway and some park on the woods road. Its your call but please park your vehicle off to the side and don't block in any other cars. Walk south on a straight, flat, road which is an abandoned rail line for about 600 meters until you reach a trail heading west (right) through a cedar swale that is marked with green flagging tape. Continue through the swale then up a short rise for about 300 meters and you will be at the base of the cliff. Approach time: 10 to 15 minutes.
Climbing Season For the New Brunswick area.
Weather station 8.7 miles from here
66 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in McQuirks Mountain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in McQuirks Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for McQuirks Mountain:
Magic X 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Combat Math 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For McQuirks Mountain