||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 20 pitches, 2400', Grade V
|Original: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b AI3 Steep Snow [details]|
|FA: ||Dan and Pat McNerthney, 1986|
|Season: ||July, early Aug|
|Page Views: ||541|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Kunz on Oct 8, 2013|
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A proud line on the North Face of Mt Waddington. The route climbs over the bergshrund onto the first of three pillars. Each pillar or buttress is climbed more or less near its crest. The top of the third pillar meets snow and ice to pass through (almost magically) the large, overhanging seracs bands of the Angel Glacier above.
Starts from the Waddington/Combatant Col. The Flavelle-Lane ice line is immediately climber's right of the McNerthney Pillar.
Medium rack, a few pitons advisable.