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The North Forty
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Unsorted Routes:

Mclovin' It 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Josh McKinnon
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Tristan Baldwin on Jan 18, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The rope is on Seaana Says (5.11d) "McLovin' ...

Description 

A V5ish boulder problem to jugs. The route starts with two flat crimp edges about 7' off the ground (cheater stones in place) with a huge foot out left and some ok options for your right. Reach out to some sidepulls up left and hit a jug. Traverse right about a meter and make a powerful move up to a huge horizontal beneath a roof (a pinch intermediate may be helpful). At the horizontal traverse the jug rail back left about 2 meters. Finally reach up to the obvious flat shelf forming the roof. Climb about 15' up from their on victory jugs.

Location 

In between Seaana Says and Love Slave on the far left end of The North 40 area. This is the third route to the left of the the steep arete forming the entrance to The Corridor. Look for the pocketed stone protrusion about 15' up.

Protection 

4 bolts to anchors. Bolts 2 and 3 are fixed. A stickclip for the first bolt is pretty mandatory as the technical crux starts at the ground and ends at the clipping jug for the second bolt


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