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McKinney Falls State Park

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Axis Mundi Roof (AKA The Roof) 
Injury Wall 
Project Wall 
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From MP's sister site:

McKinney Falls State Park Rock Climbing 

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Location: 30.1808, -97.7224 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,272
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kyber on Sep 30, 2008

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McKinney Falls is located in southeast Austin. The climbing here consists of short, relentless and steep boulder problems. Powerful and pockety.

Getting There

Heading South on I-35 exit William Cannon and head east until you dead end into McKinney Falls Pkwy go left and then take another left into the park. Pay at the booth and take your first right, go to the end and park. There's a trail that leads to a opening - walk across the limestone slab to the left. Once at the edge look for the oak tree to get down.


A current breakdown of the fees can be found on the McKinney Falls State Park site. As of October 2008, the fees are :

  • A day pass to the area for those 13 and older is $4.
  • Walk-in tent site - $12.
  • Sites with electric and water -$16

For more details, check out the TPWD site.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.5 miles from here

72 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in McKinney Falls State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for McKinney Falls State Park:
Drier Goods   V0 4     Boulder   Scrunchy Wall
5 Dope aka Another One Worth Doing (aka Shitty Warmup Right)   V2+ 5+     Boulder   Warm-Up Wall
The Arete   V3 6A     Boulder   Project Wall
Low Rider   V3 6A     Boulder   Scrunchy Wall
F*** Nut   V3 6A     Boulder   Scrunchy Wall
Prow   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Warm-Up Wall
The Prow   V4 6B PG13     Boulder, 10'   Injury Wall
Evil Eyes   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Spacefarm
Trapeze Freak   V8 7B     Boulder, 15'   Spacefarm
Tilted Earth   V10 7C+     Boulder, 15'   Axis Mundi Roof (AKA The Ro...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in McKinney Falls State Park

Featured Route For McKinney Falls State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: F@*!# Nut

F*** Nut V3 6A  Texas : McKinney Falls State Park : Scrunchy Wall
sit start- start left hand on good edge, right hand on smaller one, go to good edge then sidepull....[more]   Browse More Classics in Texas

Comments on McKinney Falls State Park Add Comment
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By Dallas R
From: Traveling the USA
Nov 23, 2013
Day use fee is now $6 per person. When the front gate closes use the self pay station at the front gate. Not free after 5. There is a night patrol. The 11/30/13 flood has left a lot of debris. The map point shows Onion Trail not the bouldering area but the location description is accurate. There are usually maps at the self pay station that clearly mark the bouldering area but not the routes.
By pete George
From: Houston, TX
Nov 11, 2014
Anybody have decent directions to the Mill Creek(?) area in Mckinney, tried to find it last time I was out there was told to downclimb near a cement picnic table, found a table scrambled down to find an extremely overgrown cliff band, the ground was covered with old logs
By jjjjjjjjjj
Jan 6, 2016
Due to heavy rains followed by flooding in May 2015 and October 2015, many trees have fallen along the bluff and obstructed the trail/landing zone for many of the problems here. This gives certain problems dangerous landings but more importantly makes them quite prone to tree-dabbing. Most of injury wall, some of porcelain doll wall, and the project (born to drag) wall are still climb-able, but will require some attention before being fully cleared. Also the problem Supernugget is super soaked all of the time.

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