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McKenzie's Arete 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: June 2007 by Matt Compton and SP Parker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: Chris S on Jul 12, 2010  with updates from mcompton Compton

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BETA PHOTO: Mt. Winchell West Aretes. McKenzie's Arete is the ...


Starting from the prominent gully north of the main Mt. Winchell formation, ascend the left-hand arete to the north summit.


Descend by traversing the crest south to the gully separating the significant, yet un-named, summit from the main formation.


Standard Sierra Rack

Photos of McKenzie's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of McKenzie's Arete looking up to first towe...
BETA PHOTO: Start of McKenzie's Arete looking up to first towe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the first tower on McKenzie's Arete
BETA PHOTO: Top of the first tower on McKenzie's Arete

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By mcompton Compton
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Approach from South Fork trailhead to Bishop Pass. Contour SE above a bench to directly below west side of Mt Winchell and Thunderbolt Peak. Hike up meadow and talus left of white rock band then angle up and right to the toe of the flat arete at the top of the talus cone.

This description is a bit vague but this is how we climbed the arete. Great climb named after my daughter. Worthy of some repeat visits and there seemed to be plenty of new route potential in the basin.

P1 climb up blocky toe of arete to big ledge. 175ft, 5.4
P2 climb up face and then arete angling slightly left to small ledge. 175ft, 5.8
P3 Traverse right around bulge then up groove and steep corner. 150 ft, 5.9
P4 Climb crack and blocks to top of first tower. 50ft, 5.5
P5 Traverse narrow ramp to orange rock. 50th, low 5th
P6 Climb up knobs to the right of big red corner and eventually into the corner on white rock. 175ft, 5.6
P7 Traverse face to right. 50 ft, low 5th
P8 climb up 5.7 cracks then stem 5.9 corner. 150ft 5.9
P9 Travers to the right of arete with a step down. 60ft, 5.9
P10 climb up obvious crack to a steep corner with 5" crack. 150ft, 5.9.
P11 climb up 4th class to notch then right to top.

Descent: Rap from chockstone near top of climb and then traverse NW around tower to notch. Climb 15ft up chimney then rap down ridge. Traverse to rap point below and before a square tower. Descend gully and stay in left branch.

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