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East Temple
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10th Division, The T 
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion T 
Fang Spire 
Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+) T 
Lovelace T 
Möbius T 
Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Möbius 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Brent Barghahn, Mike Heinz - Jan 2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Brent Barghahn on Feb 4, 2017

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Finger crack laybacking on the last pitch

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P0: scramble up ledge systems with short 5th class moves, shared approach with Lovelace. Fine in approach shoes with packs if fixed lines are present

P1: 5.7 120' Starting on a large ledge system where the wall steepens, route find through more ledges. Belay on left ledge at base of arete, sharing bolts with a mystery route heading left. Single Rack

P2: 5.10+ 100' easy chimneying leads to a stout wide hands section and an offwidth pod. Hanging belay with bolts. Single rack to #6, 3 #3s, 2 4s

P3: 5.11 110' The Rollercoaster Pitch: sustained fists and cupped hands the entire way! Climb though a flared corner, around a roof, and up a rounded bulge to a decent stance with bolts. 4-6 #4s and 4-6x #3s, 1x #2 opptional.

P4: 5.10 80' The Worm Hole: tunnel into the wall to find a hidden tight hands crack. When the crack ends after 40', tunnel back out to daylight. A tipped out 6 protects exiting the hole. Clip a bolt on the face and punchy laybacks lead to a nice hand crack finish. Doubles 0.5-2, 1 or 2 6s, extra 1 and 2 could be nice. Good two bolt stance on the right face.

P5: 5.10+ 90' Finger laybacking leads to crack funk and a fun buldge. Double 0.3-4, extra 0.4-0.5. Semi hanging belay at two bolts.

Location 

The large, twisting, right facing corner left and behind the Fang Spire.

Follow creek from the first switchback for 5-10 min. Cut left once you reach smooth slabs coming off the creek. Scramble through the slabs, then cut right along a large flat ledge. At the first erosion ridge, head uphill roughly following the crest of the ridge picking the easiest terrain. Once nearing the intermediate cliff band, diagonal right to gain a low spot. Head straight up the the main cliff, then traverse left along the base. Watch for ramp systems rightward through the 4th class terrain to the base of the corner.

Protection 

2x 0.3
2-3x 0.4
2-3x 0.5
2x 0.75
2-3x #1
2-3x #2
4-6x #3
4-6x #4
1x #6

Rap with a single 70m


Photos of Möbius Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: As seen from Lovelace, pre-anchors
BETA PHOTO: As seen from Lovelace, pre-anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off the anchors of P1, with a good view of...
BETA PHOTO: Rapping off the anchors of P1, with a good view of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wide laybacking after exiting the worm hole
Wide laybacking after exiting the worm hole
Rock Climbing Photo: The second half of the Roller Coaster pitch. Wide ...
The second half of the Roller Coaster pitch. Wide ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first half of the Roller Coaster pitch. Wide h...
BETA PHOTO: The first half of the Roller Coaster pitch. Wide h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Möbius Topo
BETA PHOTO: Möbius Topo

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