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Mayville Ledge SNA

Mayville Ledge SNA Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 1,167'
Location: 43.45457, -88.54013 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 410
Administrators: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Schulb72 on May 25, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Small stuff

Description 

Not to be confused with the Ledge county park, this area is officially called Mayville Ledge Beech-Maple Woods State Natural Area.

Completely (as of now) undeveloped but holds potential for bouldering and some small top ropes. The cliff gets higher the more north you go until heights of nearly 80 feet but the bottom of the ledge is on private property...

The rock is much like the adjacent Ledge county park. It can be extremely crumbly in some areas. Very dirty. Also reminds me of High Cliff State Park (which makes sense because its on the same geological formation).

Be careful! This place was originally owned by Mayville Limestone before acquisition by the state. Since then they have not removed the barbed-wire and no trespassing signs... but as long as you use Google Maps you'll have no issues.

Getting There 

Google is your friend, but it is close to the intersection of Hwy 33 and 67. The approach is well...interesting. The SNA is actually landlocked except a small 100' swath of land connected to the Hwy 67. There is no parking lot... we parked on the side of the highway. Google Maps on your favorite mobile device helps determine exactly where the access is but you can tell where the woods meet the highway.... slightly before a firesign travelling north.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 4.9 miles from here


Featured Route For Mayville Ledge SNA
Photos of Mayville Ledge SNA Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Again from up top
BETA PHOTO: Again from up top
Rock Climbing Photo: More scouting pics
BETA PHOTO: More scouting pics
Rock Climbing Photo: From up top
BETA PHOTO: From up top

Comments on Mayville Ledge SNA Add Comment
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By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
May 26, 2014
I hate to say but for the most part this shouldn't be posted on mountain project. All State Natural Areas are closed to climbing except in a couple special cases such as the east bluff of Devil's Lake.

While there are other natural areas such as High Cliff that are climbed on, they have historically been climbed on before being declared a state natural area.

Also you mention private land at the bottom of the cliffs which makes the situation a lot more sketchy.

I would try to keep this low-key.
By Schulb72
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 27, 2014
Paul, low key for sure but check out this thread, a couple of things are to be noted:
mountainproject.com/v/10901841...


But to give you the summary:
- This SNA is not owned by the DNR, hence the absolute no climbing is not applicable.
-The private land that *some* of the climbing/bouldering is on has been accessible in the past. The owner has given permission in the past for climbing here.

In other words, the verdict is still out. There are two possible options here: contact the land owner (UW System) and see what they say about climbing/bouldering and also to re-contact the adjacent land owner and see if he still gives permission and possibly ask about development/implied permission for future climbers.

Until then, you are right. The reason I posted this area is so that the MP community can see this opportunity and get it right from the start- lets work together to see if this little area could be the next closest rock to MKE...
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
May 27, 2014
I actually didn't know about the ownership, it would be great if someone contacted the UW Board of Regents to check their stance on climbing in the area.

A number of years ago my climbing partner John and I asked the farmer for permission and he did give us access to the bottom of the cliffs, however I would ask again, that was 6 years ago according to the thread :)

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