Mayhem Cove Rock Climbing
Kurt Smith climbing at Mayhem Cove. Photo by Blitz...
This rock features some insane sport climbing, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to low end 5.13 on usually overhanging granite, with excellent views of Emerald Bay and Lake Tahoe.
You will find this rock in the sun most of the day, and it will cook on a warm summer's day. However, if it has rained in the last week, there might be water coming down the mountain.
Most routes should be rappelled off or lowered off quickdraws, as the bolts are often not quite to the top of the rock.
There are loads of excellent climbs here, and they are too numerous to mention.
Approach time: 10 - 20 minutes.
From the parking lot, instead of heading up the main path to Desolation Wilderness, head right into the pine trees from the trailhead. You will find a narrow trail heading gently uphill perpendicular to the main trail in the shade beneath the trees. Take this up about 100 yards until a small trail is found that left and uphill heads up through the rocks to the base of Mayhem Cove.
Mayhem Cove can be seen from the parking lot several hundred yards distant by looking in the foreground to the northwest.
Weather station 7.1 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mayhem Cove
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mayhem Cove
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mayhem Cove:
Car Jacker 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Diamond 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Overkill 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Psycho II 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 55'
Cajun Hell 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Mayhem Cove
Car Jacker 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a California
: Lake Tahoe
: ... : Mayhem Cove
Climb the rightmost line of bolts on the lower section of Mayhem Cove. Being the only existing 5.9 in Mayhem Cove, this is a great warmup, A tricky interesting move gets you up over the bulge about 20 feet up. Climbing after the first bulge is pretty straighforward, but well worth the climb. This route is pretty pumpy for a 5.9.It's a fairly long ways to the first bolt, but the climbing up to this point is very easy, so I didn't give it an "s" rating....[more] Browse More Classics in California
BETA PHOTO: Mayhem Cove as seen from highway 89 about 3 miles ...
By Rob Eison
From: Denver, CO
Sep 20, 2003
Curious about Cajun Hell at Mayhem Cove. I've started working the second pitch, what I think is the 5.12c Drinkin White Lightnin'. It looks like it runs along a thin diagonal seam left of the hanging belay on the headwall above the cave but there's also a line straight up and/or up to the right. Anybody got info or beta tips?
By Karl Mendes
Feb 15, 2015
Went there today, basically all routes are wet. Keep that in mind when visiting the area, if it rained recently (1 week) there might be water coming down the mountain.