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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Margy Marshall, K. Cordner, D. Olson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 151
Submitted By: kelly cordner on May 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: route topo


vertical face to arete to easy face to cool rock over finish.
crux is above 10th bolt. If you go straight over at the 5th bolt instead of wrapping around the arete the route is more like 10b/c with that being the crux.


just left of stonefly


10 bolts

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By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
May 22, 2015

"BAD BOLTING ETIQUETTE... KOOK" is written on the wall at the base of this climb. After climbing the route, I didn't really see where the issue was? Over and left 30' or so at the base of some climbs is another thoughtful message, "LEARN HOW TO BOLT...KOOK" Seems to me that, putting bold chalk graffiti at the base of a climb is bad etiquette. No?
By karen roseme
Apr 8, 2016

I thought the route was really great, just a little sporty.
I have no idea why someone would write that stuff.
Some people are idiots!
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
May 12, 2016

Kudos to anyone putting up routes, and I'm not thrilled about writing messages at the base of climbs (it's still there after a year).
But.. what I would say about this route is that the message should probably have read "Bad bolting technique". Two of the bolts are not perpendicular to the rock, such that the bolt heads are at an angle to the hangers and only press onto the hangers in one small spot, with lots of fresh air under most of the head. And another hanger is placed over a groove in the rock so you can see the bolt beneath the hanger. There is also a drilled hole below the first bolt, which is an eyesore.
It does make you question all the things you can't see.

If you do climb the route I would recommend going direct through the roof, it's a more aesthetic line and goes at about 5.10b/c

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