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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry Coats and Gordon MacNeil
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 9,648
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (133)
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Heather Hayes plugging gear on Mayflower.


Mayflower is located on the right side of the Prow area, in the second to the last big right-facing corner (left of Fool's Game). I think this is the best 5.9 route at The Forks! First climb a short pillar with a finger crack in it (shared with Fool's Game) to gain a big shelf. Move left, place some gear, and make a big stretch across to an arete on the left. Climb the blocky holds on the arete (don't fall!) to gain the big right-facing corner above. Beautiful hand-sized jamming above takes you to the rim.


A selection of small (0 TCU) to #3 Camalot sized cams will get you up this in style.

Photos of Mayflower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: HMo on the belay
HMo on the belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark K. cruising up Mayflower August 2010
Mark K. cruising up Mayflower August 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Mayflower
Rock Climbing Photo: Elicia Hunt on the upper dihedral of Mayflower.
Elicia Hunt on the upper dihedral of Mayflower.
Rock Climbing Photo: On the route
On the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Mayflower.
Unknown climber on Mayflower.
Rock Climbing Photo: The step-across move.
BETA PHOTO: The step-across move.

Comments on Mayflower Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 23, 2017
By Brian Boyd
From: Kowloon, Hong Kong
Sep 25, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The upper handcrack is friendly, but long. Think I placed four #2 camalots and a #3 in the upper corner. There was a fixed cam that nicely protected the step across as of September '06.
By mattso
Jan 29, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The top hand crack was like putting yourself on belay with each and every jam. This is the perfect warm up climb for the harder routes on the prow.
By David Arthur Sampson
Jun 25, 2007

Great climb for those that only recently started crack climbing (and probably a good warm-up for experienced crackers). This climb provides safe thrills!
By juggy
From: Lakewood Colorado
Nov 19, 2007

Great warm-up for surrounding harder climbs!! Hidden fixed piece overhangish area while traversing will save you a piece of your own. Top crack is heaven and didn't feel like stuffing too many pieces
By Bennett
From: Southern California
Apr 22, 2009

fixed cam at step across is still there as of april 21 09. would be wise to back up, probably decking if it blew.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is no fixed cam anymore
By emilygindlesparger
Aug 19, 2009

Just got back from an amazing Forks trip--climbed Mayflower today, and even though I have small/thin hands it was a great cupped-hand size, really solid. I love that exposed step across to the pillar! And yes, not to contradict Christian on the posting above, but as of 8/19/09 there is a fixed cam in the crack.
By Dan Carter
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 12, 2010

First trip to the forks and had a great time! The fixed piece is still there. A guy I climbed with showed me an exciting start variation to this. Instead of going up the pillar, step off left into the dihedral and head up. Pretty cool and more direct. Great route!
By KyleK2
From: Phx/Flg AZ
Apr 19, 2013

Fixed cam is gone (for real this time) as of 4/14/13.
By Micah Kurtz
From: Denver, Co
May 24, 2014

Amazing route. How many blues and yellows are needed for the top portion?
By Miguel D
From: SLC
May 31, 2015

TR'd it. No fixed gear. The step across isn't too bad, definitely a bit exposed but there's good holds. You can protect under the flake with a .3 C4 (i think, maybe a .5) there's a nice notch for it if you look underneath it. The crack was mostly pretty good handjams for me (med sized hands) until the upper section where it gets just a bit wider, but not quite fist size

Great route overall. Will definitely lead next time, Just need several hand sized pieces
By Dan Evans
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 23, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Absolutely amazing route, one of the best pitches of 5.9 I have climbed to date.

Gear Used:

- Singles of .3 - 1
- (3) 2"
- (3) 3"

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