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Mayflower Direct 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Tim Coats and Carol Williams
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 3,606
Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on Feb 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Heather Hayes slotting wireds on Mayflower Direct-...


Mayflower Direct starts just to the left of the 5.9 Mayflower, directly under the hand crack. The 11+ section of this variation is stemmy, smeary, slippery, and hard to protect! With that said it is still very enticing.


The gear on this lower section is pretty dodgy, I've pulled a piece and while it wasn't a ground fall I've heard of many decking on this route. So, rack up you tiny cams, perhaps ball nuts, and a few small nuts and give it your best shot. Once you pull through this lower section the top should be a breeze, one or two #2's should do you. Good Luck

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By Paul Davidson
May 20, 2008

11d ? Hmmm, seem to recall this being considered harder than that.
Unless of course you're Tim Coats and can turn your ankles out 180 deg from each other and hop up the stems.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2008

This line is one of those problems at the forks that seems kind of body type dependent. Skinny fingers and short legs would be an ideal combo I think. But, after trying it again for the first time in a long time (5+ years), this thing still has my number... What can you do about that? The gear is all there though. While the gear is good if you find the right spots for it, placing and clipping are certainly tenuous. I think at 5.11+ it is one of the better sandbags around. But, for sure don't underestimate the power it takes just to get the gear in. I think PG13 is kind of fair, cause if you miss your placement, you may not have long to get it right.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Mar 31, 2009

I'm with Paul on this, 5.11d seems to be a huge sandbag to me. I got my butt handed to me, and then followed CrackMD up it. No matter how you cut it, its stiff. The gear is really good with small nuts (#4), and small cams, 00 BD C3's, and the green and red BD C3's. It may have handed me my butt the first time on it but I though it was really good.
By NEGuiding
From: Matawan, NJ
Jun 4, 2009

Some routes in the Phoenix area are rated strangely, I noticed a lot of routes WAY over rated and some under rated.
By Paul Davidson
Jun 9, 2009

Ahh, them Phoenicians been trying to claim the Forks ever since the word got out. Now they've enlisted the help of their Jersey brethern.
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

For me this climb was fairly sequence dependent, but when it went, 11+ felt fair.

Also, I do not think a PG-13 rating is warranted for this. It protects well with small nuts and a handful of bd c3's 000-1
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jul 2, 2013

Did this after Paradise Lost and the moves seem just as hard or harder, though not for as long. Even with the right sequence, it's very powerful and weird movement (taxing on the legs as much as the fingers).
By Ryan Z
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I placed a #5 BD nut maybe 10 feet up and a .1 C3 at around 15 feet. I do not think this is a dangerous climb at all. Both pieces are bomber. Do not let a picture of some guys leg bleeding deter you from trying it.
By Dean Hoffman
Jul 20, 2014

It's true all gear is bomber until it isn't.... But Regardless this is an awesome route!

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