Maybird Slide Area Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: This is the trailhead. You can see the Maybird gu...
The Maybird Slide Area is home to some recently developed areas. A big thanks to those who built the trail; that must have taken a lot of work. The rock here is Little Cottonwood's famous quartz monzonite, but don't be expecting to find sweeping slabs here. Most of the walls are steep, juggy with the occasional crack or seam. The rock quality is good and the routes have been cleaned up, but there are sections of rotten rock. Given that this is further up the canyon and the trail isn't obvious, this area is secluded in nature. Most of the cliffs are east-facing, so they are in the shade after 2pm or so. This makes for great climbing on hot summer afternoons or for early morning climbing in cooler weather. There was a gentle breeze coming down the gully in the evening. If you're looking for something new, this is definitely worth the hike.
Reset your odometer at the "neon" sign at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Drive ~3.8 miles up the canyon. You'll pass the "Maybird Avalanche Area" sign, go around a corner and then pull off to the side of the road. A lone pine tree (not very big) and a rock cairn mark the trail. This trail has cleared away most of the brush but is still relatively new. It is easy to follow and leads to a rock-filled gulch. Rock cairns take you on the path of least resistance through the gulch and into the side canyon. There are remnants of two stone huts at the first climbing area, the Purple Wall. The Maybird East Area is visible to the east from this point. Plan on a 20-25 minute approach from the car to this point.
Weather station 4.3 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Maybird Slide Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Maybird Slide Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maybird Slide Area:
Featured Route For Maybird Slide Area
The ButterFace 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
: Wasatch Range
: ... : The Butterface Buttress
P1. Climb obvious finger to hand crack off the ledge on the right, move up at the terminus of the crack clipping a few bolts. A WILD traverse right-ward with your heels hanging over the edge/arete get the blood pumping then you reach the crux. Push hard, grab a jug and follow the sweet arete to a nice ledge with 2 bolt belay. 5.11+P2. A mix of aid and free through a rotten crack that leaves the ledge on the left. Pass a two bolts until free climbing becomes easy, wander right ward up some ramps ...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
Mike Bird on the Purple Pumper.
BETA PHOTO: When you see these signs, pull off the road. This...
BETA PHOTO: Butter Face climbs the crack that emerges from the...
The view from the Maybird East area.
Looking down at the road from the Purple Wall.
The impressive-looking Butterface Buttress further...
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 12, 2007
Buy the topo for this area at IME. The proceeds fund the bolts you clip.
By Michael Buchanan
Jul 11, 2010
I agree with Craig, the work that must have gone into the trail to the crag must have been less than fun. My compliments, and my thanks!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 12, 2016
Fun granite jug hauling. Who knew that existed, let alone in LCC!? Thanks to the developers! Despite the routes shorted by rock slide, it is still a worthy locale.