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B. Middle Cliff Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boaty's Birthday S 
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 
Compound Fracture T 
Family Picnic S 
Flippin the bird T 
Fuck Rumney T 
Golf Ball Sized Urethra  T,TR 
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 
Mountaineers Route, The T 
Traction Splint  T 

Maybe God's a Trad Climber 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Connor Myers, (May 23rd, 2016)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on May 23, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The line of Maybe God's a Trad Climber.

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  • Description 

    Another climb that will deserve more stars once cleaned. A great route to pair with Family Picnic.

    P1. Begin up the face with difficulty until reaching easier terrain above. Continue up a gear protected bulge, followed by a bolt protected bulge and easier dirty terrain and a gear belay. (5.8)

    P2. Step right from the belay and continue up easy blocky climbing aiming for the obvious fist crack above you. Use the fist crack to reach good holds before traversing right under the small roof to a two-bolt belay. A steep but surprisingly mellow ending! (5.7)

    I had my drill stolen out of my car recently and upon wondering out loud what I could possibly have done to deserve such a thing, the name of this climb was Connor's answer.

    Location 

    Begin at an obvious triangle of missing rock with a glue-in bolt above it about 20 feet right of Family Picnic.

    Protection 

    Standard rack. Gear belay at the top of Pitch 1 if you have it or use the mid-anchor for Family Picnic. Bolts at the top of pitch 2.

    A 60 meter rope is required to rappel from the anchors to the bottom of Fuck Rumney and it's a real stretch so make sure your rope is a true 60. Alternatively, you can rappel to the mid-anchors of Family Picnic to descend in two raps.


    Photos of Maybe God's a Trad Climber Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Connor Myers leads the steep second pitch on the F...
    Connor Myers leads the steep second pitch on the F...

    Comments on Maybe God's a Trad Climber Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By doliver Oliver
    Oct 19, 2016

    You can belay on the first pitch anchors for family picnic. Good route!
    By Kris Fiore
    Administrator
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    Dec 13, 2016

    That's true, Dylan. It's a little out of line so if you have the gear to build an anchor it's more in line for the second pitch but the bolts for Family Picnic are close. It's why I didn't want to create a second bolted anchor for it.

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