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Fantasy Area
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L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Jet Cap S 
May the 4th be with you.  T 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Orgasmatron, The T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

May the 4th be with you.  

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Umbel, Domzalski, Jenkins. May 4th, 2014.
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Kevin Umbel on Apr 28, 2017

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Begin by climbing up a left leaning weakness left of Two Step arete. Climb slightly back right to a stance before the route becomes more vertical. Follow juggy features and good pro until the climbing and pro begins to change in difficulty abruptly (crux). From here negotiate less than ideal pro and do hard moves to gain a body length or so distance above your gear. From here make a few moves left traversing to a silver master cam gear placement followed by a 1" cam placement enroute to the Riddle anchors. You can also climb straight up from above the crux to top out the cliff but there is room for big fall potential and the climbing is a bit harder.


Begin 10-15' left of the arete.


Single set of cams to 1", focus on small cams. A blue/yellow offset master cam was the crux piece, backed up with a blue tcu, but I'm sure you could use something comparable in other cam manufacturers. Single set of stoppers. Several 2' slings.

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