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Sun-top Tower
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May Fly 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Tradiban on Aug 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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How May Fly looks to lead. Super fun.

Description 

Hmmm....I've never climbed it, but I had a good picture!
Sven says: "Overhang/crack. Go up and right past overhang to ledge at 20ft."
A direct version starts the same but at the niche move left to overhanging flake, then up and right to ledge. Finish in upper May Fly crack. 11d.

Location 

Start 10ft right of Sun-Top directly below upper small inside corner. Climb into niche.

Protection 

DL Style


Photos of May Fly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "May Fly" climbs to the niche and then u...
BETA PHOTO: "May Fly" climbs to the niche and then u...

Comments on May Fly Add Comment
Show which comments
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2011

Lead this first time onsight yesterday and it's fantastic.... Its way steep but super positive with great gear in the upper section... good gear from the bottom through the overhang.... Gotta go back and suss the 5.11c/d direct.... I didn't see any obvious pro in the overhanging flake direct but it sure looks cool and there are jugs to shoot for mid route....
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2011

I think it deserves a few stars atleast.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2011

Climbs better than it looks!

The technical crux is probably low, but the psycho crux is definitely the move back left! If Burt hadn't reassured me that the gear was going to get lots better, I probably would have bailed. After making the commitment I found 3 pieces.

Gear is mostly small, 1/8-1/2 inch, take doubles in that size range. I got a decent offset in the dihedral just off route before the final traverse.

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