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Agony and Ecstasy, The S 
Central Insecurity S 
Ecstasy of the People S 
Eldo of the People S 
Enema of the People S 
Enemy of the People T 
Maximum Security  T 
Men Are From Mars T,S 
Prism T 
Scraping By T 
Security Risk T 

Maximum Security  

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alec Sharp and Dan Hare, 1980
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Nov 11, 2016

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  • Description 

    This is a fun route which likely is not often climbed. There is a fun, thin hand crack near the top. The crux comes after you move right from Prism and start upward. The pro here is not great, but small cams are available, and the moves are easier than they appear at first. The hand crack at the top is great. Clipping the anchors on Ecstasy of the People gives you a good feeling before the top.


    This goes just to the right of Prism, which you start on. Walk down by going north to a gully which goes down to the west.


    Standard rack. Extra small cams are good to have. You can clip one of the anchor bolts on Ecstasy of the People at 70' up as pro. Build a gear anchor at the top.

    Photos of Maximum Security Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the hand crack.
    At the hand crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: In the crux area.
    In the crux area.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the Ecstasy anchors.
    At the Ecstasy anchors.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving from Prism onto the route.
    Moving from Prism onto the route.

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