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Maximum Overdrive 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jerry Roberts
Page Views: 2,352
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jan 31, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Maximum Overdrive- 13a

Description 

Roof climbing at it's best! A 30 foot 12b on slightly overhanging slopers, leads to 35 feet of completely horizontal roof climbing madness.

Paw through scoops and slopes to reach a jug in the break just below the massive roof. Although the holds look pretty good from the ground, they all prove to be a bit harder to use than you expect- requiring creative moves and novel footwork to make things manageable. The first four bolts in the roof are the hardest, but the end does not let up. Save a little to clip the chains!

In my opinion, this route felt a bit stiff for 13a so be ready to kick into overdrive, and get creative. Some of the rock is a little friable so beware if you stray from the chalked up holds. Also, most people skip the third draw in the roof.

Location 

The rightmost roof route in the Stephen King Library. Start just right of Pet Semetery.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. The roof bolts are fixed with quick-links, tied webbing and a carabiner. Make sure you inspect these on your attempt. Also, some of the bolts look a little rusty so beware.


Photos of Maximum Overdrive Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik Kloeker on Maximum Overdrive, 5.13a, The Obed...
Erik Kloeker on Maximum Overdrive, 5.13a, The Obed...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof of Maximum Overdrive-13a
Roof of Maximum Overdrive-13a

Comments on Maximum Overdrive Add Comment
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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I'm glad they're calling the initial 30' 12b, I thought it was sorta' hard for the start. Hardest part for me was all the sand/dirt on many of the holds leading out the roof. Classic, but needed a cleaning run before sending.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 27, 2017
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

One of the coolest roofs ever! Great movement and surprisingly good holds if your body position is correct!

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