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Can't Find My Guernsey Cow T 
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La hora brava T 
Luck of the Draw S 
Maximum Leader S 
Pulling on Porcelain S 
Voyeur Variation T 

Maximum Leader 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Cosby 1990
Page Views: 340
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Sep 16, 2014

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Description 

Let me start off by saying that this is one hell of a good route and should be on every 5.12 NRG climber's list of must do routes. Diversity of movement, length, setting, and difficulty all come together on this classic.

Maximum Leader starts on the huge boulder between Hellbound for Glory and Luck of the Draw. Pulling on Porcelain, a 13a, starts just left of it and unfortunately follows Maximum Leader closely most of the route. But you'll get over this minor point quickly once realize the radness of this rig.

The route starts with a desperate boulder problem that might be a bit easier for shorter folks. Figure out this powerful start and ready yourself for another powerful 12- roof pull. Once into the dihedral, the climbing eases off for a few bolts until the last 4 bolts. Get ready for classic, hard, vertical "Sendless Wall" style climbing. Don't be afraid to do a bit of wandering up there to reach the anchor.
While at the anchor don't forget to sit back and look over your shoulder to take in this old river gorge in all its beauty. You damn well earned it, Sir Lordeth Maximum Leader!!!

Location 

Just right of Pulling on Porcelain. Starts on a huge boulder just after Hellbound for Glory.

Protection 

Bolts, lots of them! 14 bolts. Probably a good idea to stick click the 1st and 2nd bolt and then make sure, DEFINITELY make sure, you put a LONG RUNNER on the 3rd bolt in the roof or you will suffer rope drag city on the upper half of the route.

The other strategy you might employ is to stick clip the 2nd and 3rd and then unclip the 2nd as you climb past it. However, you are then risking your life to a single bolt in the roof. It is a new 1/2 inch stainless steel bolt but I wouldn't risk this myself. Be safe out there.


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By BrianWS
Oct 19, 2015

Hard as nails, per the usual Endless Wall 5.12. The start is extremely difficult for short climbers -- critical holds are too reachy from the good jams in the corner, and feet are too far to use the friable jugs under the starting roof. Not a fun start, not just because of the awkwardness, but also the fragile stone. Perhaps this can be bypassed by starting on the first bolts of pulling on porcelain and traversing into the roof?

Once in the large roof (bolt 3), the climbing is fantastic -- plated jugs, hard jamming, and very physical movement through a crack system. Unfortunately, rock quality is fragile and "crispy" through the overhanging sections, or until about the 5th or 6th bolt. After that, the stone becomes bullet hard and the burly steep climbing transitions to a hard technical face/arete.

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