Maximilianswand Rock Climbing
Mylan Sykora's old-school classic face climb Free ...
This undulating cliffline is huddled inconspicuously behind the much more imposing Krottenseer Turm. Despite its unassuming look, the crag is packed with classics lines, and many of the Franknejuras most significant developers have left their mark along this wall, particularly Wolfgang Gullich, Mylan Sykora, John Bachar, Kim Carrigan, and Markus Bock. Although the climbs here are not as spectacular as those at some other Pegnitztal areas, the sheer density of climbs and range of difficulty make this a popular destination.
The cliff is located within a dense forest that provides substantial shade. A few lines here stay dry in the rain, but most of the routes tend toward vertical to slabby. The rock is relatively poorly featured by Frankenjura standards, and so the climbs tend to be less steep and more technical than similarly graded routes at other crags.
From Neuhaus, follow the signs to Krottensee, and then once there, follow the signs to Maximiliansgrotte (well-signed). After passing the parking area for Maximiliansgrotte, continue along the same road (which turns to gravel just as you pass the cave parking) for 2.1km as it twists through the forest. Park on the left at a 4-5 car pullout with a kiosk. You can see Krottenseer Turm through the trees to the east from the kiosk. Follow the obvious trail to Krottenseer Turm, and then skirt that wall to the right, following an obvious trail. Maximilianswand is immediately right of (and slightly above) Krottenseer Turm.
Climbing Season For the Frankenjura area.
Weather station 23.0 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Maximilianswand
Auerbacher Weg 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Europe
: ... : Maximilianswand
This unassuming turret of limestone is one of the more memorable 7s in the Krottenseer region. Something about the carpet of deep green moss, the canopy of trees, and the geometry of the cliff give this line a magical feel. The climbing is thoughtful and engaging, and while consistently sustained, it is never terribly difficult. This is about as good as Grade 7 Frankenjura climbing gets.Begin with a tough and somewhat polished boulder problem on incut pockets to clear the low bulge. Weave ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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