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Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
Page Views: 4,439
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Apr 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Cool shot of me on Maxim


The very high problem at the top of the hill, kind of in a small courtyard of problems, opposite Gadgetry. Sit start with small crimps and cramped small feet. Make a powerful move up to the left, traverseto the right around the faint arete, then up and back to the left for the 20+ foot topout. After you grab the small horn the holds are pretty decent, but it's still pretty scary, dramatic, fun and hard.


At the top of the hill in the area, as you come up the trail it will be on the last of the really high boulders on your right (but you can't see the start while walking up.) The face you climb will be looking back down towards the pond and the horse farm trail.


Lots of pads and lots of spotters, although the landing is actually not too bad.

Photos of Maxim Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fife about to make a large first move.
Fife about to make a large first move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Broken Hold
BETA PHOTO: Broken Hold
Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the big reach around the arete
Sticking the big reach around the arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete on Maxim
Pete on Maxim
Rock Climbing Photo: from here i have my hands on the gastone and the R...
BETA PHOTO: from here i have my hands on the gastone and the R...
Rock Climbing Photo: I think I am still on route hands are on...
I think I am still on route hands are on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Maxim

Comments on Maxim Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 31, 2016
By Tristan Perry
Aug 13, 2007

This line is painful and crimpy, and nicely scary up high.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jun 20, 2008
rating: V7 7A+

I screwed up the beta at the top, which makes it really exciting. Two good spotters will make you feel better about the slabby boulder under the arete.
By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
May 14, 2009

i think i was kinda far right, but i broke a flake off of this and took a fall from the top. my spotter saved my life, and i gave him a good size shiner on his cheek.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 14, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

damn strait i saved your life :) and my face still hurts lol
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 14, 2009

nice job mike for the spot and jesse for a sweet bit of climbing...
By Lanky
From: Tired
May 15, 2009
rating: V7 7A+

Jesse, where was the flake? Above the slopey gaston? Around the arete to the right? Just curious.
By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
May 19, 2009

yeah pretty far right... does the line go more to the left? the topout above that looked spicy, but it was starting to drizzle. should i be closer to the arete?

julian, i was on two sold crimps right around the corner and then got a super high foot, locked off and reached way up to a smaller crimp, matched and went out right to a really good rail. from there i went right hand to a flake that i kinda under clinged, got super high feet and then it broke. wheres the crux? the climbing over there didnt feel v7? i mean it should have felt kinda like a short and softtt 13.a. but the climbing out right felt a tad soft.
By Lanky
From: Tired
May 20, 2009
rating: V7 7A+

Jesse, sounds like you were off route to the right. The line starts on the face, makes a short traverse to the arete, a couple moves up the arete on good edges and then left onto the face via a slopey gaston. You top out directly above the start.
By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
May 20, 2009

alright, thanks julian. the line out right feels pretty good. easier, but if you're there (with some pads and spotters) it is worth a look.
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Oct 8, 2009
rating: V7 7A+

I love this climb. It is one of my fav's in the park. However, Iwould not suggest doing it alone with only one pad. It was kind of scary. The highball topout is so classico.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Oct 11, 2010
rating: V6+ 7A

got on this today and made it to the good crimp up high the description I believe calls a "horn"... wicked fun climbing and I think with a couple more sessions it will go
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 4, 2011

So is the triangle foot block just under Mike's feet in the following photo on or off for this problem?:

I brought someone out there yesterday and wasn't sure what the "official" opinion on using it for a foot was.
By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Dec 5, 2011

The detached triangle block is off.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 4, 2012
rating: V7- 7A+

Footage of this problem at 0:46

By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Nov 4, 2012

What a great climb! One of the scariest problems I've ever done, and easy for the grade.
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 5, 2013

Skip the sit start and you can have fun working the classic moves even if you're weak like I am. Great route.
By Graham O.
Jul 7, 2016

Sent this one today!! Great route; super fun crimping the whole way. Don't blow the top out.

Footage starts at 4.03:
By Jason Scott Heacock
From: Milford, NH
Oct 31, 2016
rating: V7 7A+

I am sorry to inform people that the second or third crimp is gone. Depending on your beta its the second or third hold from the sit start. There is now a credit card or slightly better crimp making the use of this same move more in the solid V7 grade without a doubt.

There is another crimp that is an alternate move, mostly positioning is just a bit different that also works. *See image in photo section...

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