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Unsorted Routes:

Max Factor 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Carrigan & Levin
Page Views: 9,179
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
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Slator Aplin pulling through the crux. It will put...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Max Factor is one of the best 5.11 finger cracks in Vedauwoo. Locate this beauty at the far end of the crag from the parking lot, just around the corner right from the Tubes. The climbing is positive with excellent finger locks until you reach a distinct crux just before the crack bulges. There are good smears for the feet on the right, and if you utilize your left toe well in the crack then relying on the shallow, technical jams at the crux won't seem so desperate. Still, it seems that one short section is a show-stopper for a lot of climbers. Above, the positive locks resume. Lower off of the (new) bolts on the underside of the big bulge (this is the top of P1 of Grand Traverse) or continue up the 5.10+ crux bulge of that route (possible in one pitch). This climb was tried many times by many climbers before Australian Kim Carrigan onsighted it, and compared it in difficulty to Fish Crack in the Valley (5.12b). It has cleaned up considerably since then; in 1980 the crack was filled with gravel, loose bits of rock, and vegetation, and felt like 5.12 to me. Today most climbers will agree it is 5.11 something-or-other, and an area classic.


Medium wired nuts work well on this climb. I would bring a good selection from wireds, TCUs to 1" cams, and singles up to 3", or something like that.

Photos of Max Factor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Brink making it look easy.
Adam Brink making it look easy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset send!
Sunset send!
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the business.  Photo taken by Nate Sy...
Getting into the business. Photo taken by Nate Sy...
Rock Climbing Photo: My first lead attempt. This thing is hard.   Photo...
My first lead attempt. This thing is hard. Photo...

Comments on Max Factor Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 25, 2017
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Jul 2, 2002

I found this rout is very very hard in my humble opinion. For people with big fingers it will be difficult. Not that I have a good reference base for grads in the hard eleven but seemed to be twelve to.
By richard magill
Jul 19, 2004

Beautiful and burly.
By Jesse Ryan
Jul 22, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Awesome line - Vedauwoo 11c - easily as hard as a 12a sport line.
By willem
Sep 15, 2004

Do this route!
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 20, 2005

Vedauwoo Mega Classic. Once you're through the crux, the technical difficulty drops big time - if you've got the gas to stay with it after that, you've got it.
By Brian Weinstein
Jul 27, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks for the history, Steve. The crux is quick, maybe 2 moves. My favorite finger crack in Vedauwoo.
By lenore sparks
From: Denver, Colorado
Sep 6, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is significantly easier than .11c if you have little fingers. Butt touchers beware.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Excellent climb. Easy for 11c 'voo, but maybe I just suck at anything wider than hands.
By Peter Yakovchuk
From: Tempe, AZ
May 21, 2012

Someone compared this route to the headwall pitch of J Crack at Lumpy. If that pitch is 11c, than Max Factor is somewhere around 11b. The hard climbing section on this one is a little longer than on J Crack crux, but the moves seem to be easier. At least finger locks are much easier. This is one of my favorite route at Vedauwoo.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Aug 31, 2012

Don't get too focused on jamming near the top of this one. I found a nice crimpy sidepull on the right side of the crack to be very useful right before the crack steepens and eases off.
By Chris Kalman
Oct 8, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a really enjoyable pitch. So interesting to hear how hard it was back in the day. After years of cleaning, I'd say this feels like 11a/b (to stay consistent with the area). I don't say that to take away from anyone (I'm sure glad it was clean as a whistle when I got on it in 2016), only to encourage climbers breaking into the 11 grade. It takes good gear the whole way and is really fun.
By Alex Randolph
Jun 25, 2017
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route is nice and shady in the summer! I think this route protects safely with a single rack from 0.2 to 2" and nuts. I placed several DMM offset nuts that were particularly bomber. Great movement, bomber pro, quick clips at the top (for lowering, not toproping on). This is an excellent climb to work your finger locks on. Recommended for the aspiring 5.11 leader.

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