Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Beehive Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien Dave S 
Back to Bucket Country S 
Chivalry is Dead S 
Five Days One Summer S 
Fun Button aka Muscle Beach S 
Gypsie Fire S 
Intoxica S 
Lucky Groove S 
Madiera Beach S 
Mavericks S 
Middle Staircase S 
Monkey and the Engineer S 
Mountainside Hipsters (aka Aspen Fantasy Land) S 
Noxious Invasives S 
Phipps' Gardens S 
Priests are Perverts, Too S 
Rip Chords S 
Safari Winch Ride S 
Telstar S 
Unnamed Roof Problem S 
Walk on the Wild Side S 
Walking the Board S 

Mavericks 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Zack Orenzak (5.10, A2), FFA: Brownpoint King
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: bart cubrich 1 on Jun 24, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on Gypsy Fire, then head straight up the roof (crux), and finish up the techy slab climbing. Don't be fooled by the bolts to the right after the roof moves, the route goes straight up. This route is actually pretty sweet for The Beehive, even though it is basically one move of 5.12.

Location 

Start on Gypsy Fire, and go through the roof.

Protection 

A couple long slings for the 5.6 portion (I use 3), 3 quickdraws, and anchor gear. The anchor is a little sketchy looking, so if you like the person who is cleaning the route, I usually back up the anchor with a 0.3 BD X4. Bring a double length runner for the anchor of Gypsy Fire if you want the rope out of your way. It is safe to clip the crux bolt without doing so, but you will get massive rope burn when you fall in the crux.


Comments on Mavericks Add Comment
Show which comments
By climberish
Aug 8, 2015

Straight through the roof felt pretty hard.... Definitely hard 5.12 to me and my partner.