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YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Zack Orenzak (5.10, A2), FFA: Brownpoint King
Page Views: 761
Submitted By: bart cubrich 1 on Jun 24, 2015

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Start on Gypsy Fire, then head straight up the roof (crux), and finish up the techy slab climbing. Don't be fooled by the bolts to the right after the roof moves, the route goes straight up. This route is actually pretty sweet for The Beehive, even though it is basically one move of 5.12.


Start on Gypsy Fire, and go through the roof.


A couple long slings for the 5.6 portion (I use 3), 3 quickdraws, and anchor gear. The anchor is a little sketchy looking, so if you like the person who is cleaning the route, I usually back up the anchor with a 0.3 BD X4. Bring a double length runner for the anchor of Gypsy Fire if you want the rope out of your way. It is safe to clip the crux bolt without doing so, but you will get massive rope burn when you fall in the crux.

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By climberish
Aug 8, 2015

Straight through the roof felt pretty hard.... Definitely hard 5.12 to me and my partner.

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