REI Community
Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra TR 
Burning Chrome T 
Chris Cross T,TR 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
Culp-Raubach Finish T 
Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
Doris Gets Her Oats T 
Dream Weaver T 
Everybody Route, The T 
Fanning the Flame T 
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 
Grand Course, The T 
Grandmother's Challenge T 
Great Zot Variation A., The T 
Great Zot, The T 
Green Hornet, The T,S 
Green Slab Direct T 
Green Slab-Original Route T 
Green Sleeves T 
Green Spur, The T 
Heddie La Rue T 
Hot Links T 
Hot Spur, The T 
Lost in Space T 
Maverick T 
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 
Northumberland Crack T 
Paris Girl S 
Piece of the Sun  T 
Please Close Lid T 
Rabbits From Hats T 
Razors to Rubble T 
Rebuffat's Arete T 
Rewritten T 
Roof Wall, The T 
Silver Raven T 
Spur of the Moment T 
Sunstar T 
Swanson Arete T 
Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 


YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: M. Brooks, L. Smith, 1981
Season: FacesS/SW - mid AM sun.
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kat A. follows Maverick on 4/29/12. Photo by Tony ...

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This pitch has some pretty nice climbing on it, but it is marred rather frequently by bushes or loose rock. An experienced adventure climber will not mind, but it is not a route for tentative leaders.
    The crux is probably the first 3 meters of climbing and involves a massive but precarious looking flake. While I was comfortable climbing on that and jamming it, the thought of placing gear behind it was rather unattractive, and so there was a runout there.


    This route starts as for The Hot Spur, in a left-facing, left-leaning corner. After a move or two, pull into a handcrack behind a massive flake and pass a small tree. Continue up and left past a small roof and head sharply left away from the left-facing slot of The Hot Spur and out to a second crack system. The climbing improves. Continue up cracks on some 5.7 to 5.8+ terrain past a medium pine to a ledge with additional pines. A delicate traverse (sloping ledge with loose rocks on it) will take you South 4 meters to a very solid and well situated tree to rap, if that is your goal.

    Be VERY careful pulling the rope from the wall. "Bricks" abound on the ledges....


    A standard rack of nuts & cams to 4". This area of the wall tends to accept large gear too, but it is not necessary, as other options are not far away. Take some cord or webbing if you want to retreat after completing this pitch and not continue on The Hot Spur. A 70m JUST touches down from the best tree we could locate.

    Comments on Maverick Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About