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Forgotten Ambition T 
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High Fructose Corn Syrup S 
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Maudlin S 
Nosferatu S 
Roll the Bones S 
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: James Garrett and Glen Kaplan, 21 November 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: When weather permits
Page Views: 6,839
Submitted By: James Garrett on Nov 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (157)
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2 year old climbing the 5.7


This bolted, moderate line adds some variety and choice to the few well-protected and very well-traveled routes on this popular wall.

Pitch #1: To the left of the main cleft or dihedral which is to the left of the popular Italian Arete, climb up a slight spur of rock passing two small roofs on mostly big, climber-friendly holds. Continue to the top of the wall to a two-bolt belay. 5.7.

Carefully rappel the route or lower with a 70m rope. Walking off may be safer and recommended. Rappel x 2 via midway ledge to right won't leave you hanging.


This is on the East Face of the Salt Lake City Slips. An obvious bolted long line climbs between the Italian Arete and Forgotten Ambition (I think mostly a forgotten route, as well?).

This is a long route....longer than the average sport route in the vicinity and elsewhere in BCC. Descent can be achieved by walking off or by rappelling with a 70m rope (two ropes is probably better). Many of the bolts are glue-in stainless steel, so if you choose to rappel the route with one 50m or one 60m rope x two that would be yet another option.


12 QDs

Photos of Maudlin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice 5.7 slabbing.
Nice 5.7 slabbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: this is my 70m rope hanging from the anchors at th...
BETA PHOTO: this is my 70m rope hanging from the anchors at th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber next to us
Unknown climber next to us
Rock Climbing Photo: Great climb. 14 total Quick Draws
Great climb. 14 total Quick Draws
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt heading up the slab.
Matt heading up the slab.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on TR
Matt on TR

Comments on Maudlin Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 30, 2016
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Jan 3, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hi James. Pretty fun climbing on this one. The length and bolt placements seemed about right to me. We rapped with a 70m rope and just barely made it with a short easy downclimb. Probably won't work for yo-yoing. Easy enough to get down using one of the many anchors on the big ledge.

As for controversy, doesn't this cross over the top of Forgotten Ambition? Don't really want to stir things up, who climbs Forgotten Ambition anyways? I never have. But I thought it deserved mentioning.
By James Garrett
Jan 11, 2008

Hi, yea, no worries,....I thought Forgotten Ambition goes right of the final pillar up the right facing dihedral. So the routes cross right below there. What do you think? I knew they intersected twice, (down low and up high) but have convinced myself they are essentially independent of each other....thanks for your comments. I do know that FA is a Forgotten route!!!!
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
May 18, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Oh Glen... Love it! Great way to exit the slips without having to hike up the scree. Solid 5.7 with plenty of bolts. Don't change it. Interesting choice for the anchor gear.
By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a good addition to the Slips! Still extremely beginner friendly, but nice and long.
By Zirkel
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 8, 2008

What an amazingly fun route! It's long, semi-steep (at least for 5.7), and exposed. My new favorite BCC date climb.
By chris21
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

did it as two pitches using anchors off to the right above the ledge
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Sep 18, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This is a very enjoyable climb. Great addition. Unfortunately it can only be climbed with a 70m rope, and it barely reaches. At the same time, it's the length that makes it super enjoyable. Thanks again James for the routes! BTW the bolting was perfect.
By Eric Leis
From: Holladay, Utah
Jun 4, 2010

I've climbed this multiple times and it is still really enjoyable. I find it a great place to bring newer climbers and let them feel what a nice consistent long climb feels like.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
May 3, 2011

this route is a nice way to get out of the gulley if you hiked in from the storm mtn picnic area. the belay at the top is a descent stance with plenty of room for a pack, and your party to unrope.
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice easy long climb. Good place for new leaders or beginners to top rope. We did it with a 60m rope and belayed from the top. You can repel to the anchors on Italian Arete to get down or just hike down.
By Wic
From: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Sep 10, 2015

You can also climb this as a single pitch; climb up first pitch and rap down from the anchors at top of first pitch on Italian Arete. Great climb to take friends on who are new to climbing.
By Kyle Rummens
From: North Salt Lake, UT
Jul 30, 2016

If not very many people are in the area, you can split this route into two pitches by using the chains of Italian Arete. We did this because we didn't have enough quick draws with us. Also, we had to do 2 rappels to get to the bottom (using the same chains we used when coming up). DO NOT RAPPEL WITH A 60M ROPE! YOU'LL BE 15 FEET SHORT

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