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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,583
Submitted By: DaveT on May 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: An awkward start leads to increasingly fun climbin...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A quality alternative to the first pitch of Ixtlan. Start 20 feet right of Ixtlan, following 6 bolts through a tricky/insecure left-facing corner, two small roofs, and a thin final section up then traversing left to the Ixtlan pitch 1 anchor.


Other side of the bush.


Bolts, optional smallish placement before the first bolt.

Photos of Matzoland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Ressler on his redpoint of Matzoland.
Dan Ressler on his redpoint of Matzoland.

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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is rad! Interesting climbing! One of the key crimps near the top is about ready to break. It's cracked and flexes quite a bit as of 5/15. A little glue could totally save the hold, but it would probably go and just be a touch harder without it.
By Jeff Edge
Nov 25, 2015

Death block alert!!! The huge block after the 4th(?) bolt is going to fall on whoever touches it next! It rocks from the top about 4 inches. I drew 3 big X's on it. It's easily 100+ lbs and would definitely kill you and/or your belayer.

Also on my way up I pulled off a big block right around the 3rd bolt that was a pretty important hold. It came off when I barely touched it. Upon inspection, it appears to have been held on by some lichen or something. You can see it sitting at the base.
By yann gauthier
Nov 28, 2015

Did it on top rope all the move goes but yes the big block with the 3 big X on is moving. I try to pull it off but it will need a crowbar. super dangerous if it fall ! dont belay someone in lead on that route until the bloc is gone.
Super nice route :)

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