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Tunnel Vision Wall
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Matt's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Williams, Matt Cauda, Lisa Delaney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: C. Williams on Aug 30, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Splitter!

Description 

Start on easy but currently dirty climbing just right of the large grassy corner.Head fir a shallow corner and finger crack about 20ft off the deck. Follow the feature until it ends at the top of a small ledge. Step left into a gear protected face and top the ledge system. From here take the obvious corner splitter to the top.

Location 

Look for the splitter corner at the top of the wall.

Protection 

Doubles to 3" one #4. Bolt anchor.
A careful rap with one 70m rope will get you down, or walk off right.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 18, 2017
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Aug 30, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A single rap on a 70m will get you to the ground
By The Shocker
Sep 4, 2016

FA Leo Amercius 1990 ish.
A bunch of shorter routes and solos done between Tunnel vision and the Tunnel in the early 90s. He pointed out almost a dozen to me. Some that I've done also.
Just waiting for someone to claim the second first ascent of the problem coming out of the tunnel...
Remember, just because it's not on Facebook, doesn't mean it never happened.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Sep 4, 2016

Nice try, 3/10 for effort on the troll. The existing routes on this section of wall were pointed out and avoided.
By The Shocker
Sep 5, 2016

I have a hard time believing that Collins, Turecki, Bauman, et al, went out there with you and gave you the full spray down from back in the day.
Ignorance is bliss.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Andy, you've claimed others climbed something that I did awhile back, which was a lie, and I know it was a lie, because if they had climbed it, they did a good job replacing the spaghetti rock in the top out they would have pulled over, you removed the comment because, well, you lied. So, rather than all this blow hard, produce a topo drawn by one of those guys, or pictures of you (or them) soloing, or keep on spraying if you need the ego boost, or whatever I guess. Cheers mate.

I enjoyed this route, nice moves about midway up and the crack at the top is pretty stellar!
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Sep 6, 2016

The funny thing is that you, Andy, are the one who pointed the original lines out to me. When I asked about the rest of the rock your comment was "Naw, looks like choss." Don't worry, you were too baked that day to remember.
By The Shocker
Sep 6, 2016

Woah there junior. You'd better know what you're talking about before you start making accusations like that. You'll end up looking pretty bad when you realize how wrong you are.
As to the route in question;
I only recognized it from your picture because I watched Moose Pass Chunk hack his way up most of it while his partner ( don't remember his name) belayed in the mist. It was tough to watch, Chunk wasn't a great climber. I left before he finished, it took him FOREVER. 2009 ish.
2013, hiking through the gap ran into Leo for the third time that summer, we hung around the Tunnel zone, bouldered and bullshitted. I asked him specifically about that line, and he told me he'd done it around the same year he was lurking a lot up there. 1990 ish.
If you think Leo was lying to me, or I'm lying to you, you need to check your ego. I'm just stating the facts that I'm aware of.
And if you think that because you found some loose rock, moss, or there wasn't a two bolt ASCA anchor at the top of a route, it hasn't been climbed in the last 30 years.... Well, your ignorance and depth of knowledge is showing.
You reckon nobody climbed the "Poop chute" at Weiner because you'd never heard of it and there weren't any bolts on it?
And if you think I'm not gonna slow play all the untouched routes to some punk kids from the gym, you're deluded.
Kids these days. You'd rather call sombody a liar than acknowledge with your own ignorance.
Just remember. If it's not on Facebook, it never happened.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm talking about a different route, stroner, to make a point that you're a liar, and once the little boy cries wolf too many times it gets real hard to believe him. sounds like you're getting yourself all mixed up in another lie, oops credibility is sort of like a credit score, yours is going down... But then again, weed does diminish your memory over time, you might be remember things that, well, were just a little different. Funny, when I ran into Leo up in fairangel in 2013, he mentioned tunnel vision, and the bolted bashy things that were on that wall, and nothing else. Keep weaving your yarns Andy, I get off on watching you rant on the mp, way more fun than your 1/10 tries on the taco :)
By The Shocker
Sep 6, 2016

Dude. You're full of it.
Next thing you know you'll be claiming the FA of the AZ crack, or the Inverted staircase, waiving your arms and screaming, " There are no bolts! No topo! Nobody can climb anything without bolts and topos!!!" "I invented sticky rubber!!!" "Everybody is a stoner"
Your arrogance and dishonesty fueled by your ego is first of its kind for sure.
If you saw Leo in 2013, what happened to his face?
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I must be getting to you. Checkout scareball masterpiece. Now dig way back to the cobwebbed inner reaches of your memory, and tell me the story that you told. If you can't that's fine, but if you tell a new one, I'll prove it. I'm sorta like the bank that won't give you a credit card, I've checked your score and I'm afraid you'll default.
By The Shocker
Sep 6, 2016

Yep, that's what I thought. Your totally full of it. If you'd seen Leo in 2013 in Fairangel, you would have seen how messed up his face and eye was. He bashed and scraped it (right side) all over a rusty cable at the Snowbird mine, slack lining with Dan and I. It was messed up for weeks. You're completely, obviously dishonest about talking to Leo. And you're calling me, and him a liar. That is incredibly weak dude. And goes to show how credible YOU are.
And if you think your opinion of me matters, you're wrong about that too.
You're only fooling yourself.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Whatever, I did see him, I didn't call him a liar. He told me about finding tunnel vision acknowledging he needed a stronger partner, and recruiting Turecki. He bitched about the high line bolts in Reed and commented on doing a bunch of bouldering in Reed (perhaps he was talking about snowbird?) and complained about some job that was drug testing him or something? Not going to talk scareball? You're getting boring. Hooowwllllll.
By The Shocker
Sep 6, 2016

Dude. I want some of what you are smoking.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Sep 6, 2016

So is there a reason you never mentioned the route in question before? Maybe that day in May 2014 when you felt the need to show off the stuff at jungle gym? I'll refresh your memory. We biked in, got bored at the jungle gym, you attempted to smoke a quarter pound of sticky, and we hiked up to tunnel vision because the third in our party was bored with 5.7 (if you can name that third I'll toss in some pot brownie points for you). I asked if there were any routes on the lower wall and you pointed out the 2 bashie routes and the flared crack just up hill from the tunnel. I said something about there being more room for routes and you responded with "Naw, looks like choss."
By The Shocker
Sep 6, 2016

I didn't point out the Tunnel route, the traverse that goes left to right over the Tunnel, the other half dozen boulder problems around the tunnel, or the "route in question" either.
So weird it's almost like I wasn't going to give away all the goods to the beaters from the gym. Huh, who would have thunk of that. Not immediately and constantly spraying about everything in sight they've climbed. I know that blows your mind that some people don't spray as hard as you do.
If you had any clue, you'd know that the "it's all choss" line is used to keep the hoards away.
I didn't point out the East face of the Pinnacle to you either? That must mean it's waiting for a second first ascent! ( it's total choss btw).

How goes that long list of routes that I put up that you've replaced bolts on? Never heard anything more about that...
By Mat Brunton
Jul 18, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Have lead this twice w/o #4 cam and it can still be stitched up quite nicely with double rack to #3. If you are rapping with a single 70m it will not get you to the ground direct; you'll have to rap down the upslope side or use one of the intermediate anchors and do a second rap.

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