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Mattress Wars 

Mattress Wars 

Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Joe Ballent 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Joe Ballent on Jul 31, 2008

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Joe Ballent on the first move of Mattress Wars (V2...


Stand-start for an easy ascent. For a challenge, sit-start. There's a decent pinch for your right hand. A solid four-finger hold exists above eye-level on the left. Place feet to the left and use your left arm to lift yourself. Immediately shoot about 6 inches farther left. From there, walk your hands up a right-leaning crack to a nice lip for the top-out.


When approaching the radio tower from the gravel road, leave the road and head west at the first switchback. You'll be on the south side of the hill. Continue west for about 30-40 yards, weaving between rocks. Mattress Wars is the first clean face. Look for a slightly chalked-out right-leaning crack.


Crash pad, spotter

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