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Mating Ritual 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Evan W.
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer - dry!!
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jul 16, 2016

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Setting up for the "flying squirrel" mov...

Description 

The Mating Ritual consists of wildly exciting and strenuous movement from bottom to top with very technical sequences on quality rock. The route is split into three cruxes separated by two mediocre rests. Begin in the chimney and cut left with a big throw past the first bolt. Finagle your way through a bizarre sequence (or muscle up directly if you are strong) up to a sub-par rest at the 3rd bolt: techy V7- with the right beta or powerful V8 without. The second crux is a short, but low percentage V6+. Cross through to a wild flying squirrel move: Launch off a sidepull, to a wedge, then to a hidden hold right around the bulge all in one viciously amazing throw. Taller/stronger folks might be able to static it. Cop a quick rest on jugs with no feet, then move left into the dihedral for the third, easier crux.

The route is short and stout; shorter but much more challenging than Redwood Burl and similar in difficulty to Thank You Thighmaster but with many more hard moves.

Location 

First route on your left as you enter the corridor, just before the log.

Protection 

5 bolts (titanium), Ram's horns anchor.


Photos of Mating Ritual Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top portion of Mating Ritual
Top portion of Mating Ritual
Rock Climbing Photo: At the third bolt of Mating Ritual
At the third bolt of Mating Ritual

Comments on Mating Ritual Add Comment
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By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Jul 16, 2016

Nice one! I eyeballed this thing like 20 times. Does it finish slapping up the short arete right of that small dihedral?
By Evan Wisheropp
Jul 16, 2016

Ah, I top roped two finishes and settled on one that I think is pretty magical. The bolts are to the right of the arete, but I will leave the beta up to you! I will say that attacking it straight on makes it significantly harder.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 19, 2016

Wow!
By Ryder Dschida
From: McKinleyville, CA
Jul 23, 2016

Really proud to have been a part of this route. From pointing out the line and the "hey, this could go" scout, to the bolting, to being there for the FA lead. It looks hard as hell. Maybe, one day, I can climb this.
By Evan Wisheropp
Dec 21, 2016

Second ascent by none other than Ethan Pringle! Who's got thirds??

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