Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Salmon River Falls (Ice)
Select Route:
Don't Cry Over Spilt Milt TR 
Mate, Spawn, and Die 
Salmon Steak TR 

Mate, Spawn, and Die 

WI5 M4

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 130'
Original: WI5 M4 [details]
FA: Jim Lawyer, Ade Miller Feb 2001
Season: March
Page Views: 924
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Nov 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Amphitheater at Salmon River Falls.

Description 

THE classic, hard ice route in central New York, and one of the most reliable routes in the Salmon River Amphitheater. Named for a song by the punk music band Lard; this route began the salmon-theme route names here. The route was a long-standing problem, and the scene of some remarkable falls on stubbie screws.

The ice on this route is the highest continuous ice in the Amphitheater; the ice reaches up into the shale band higher than its neighbors. It usually forms early, and due to the geometry of the shale, is more resilient to thaws. Even so, the final columns below the shale band are often poorly bonded and really steep.

Climb steep pillars to a ledge. Continue up a short, steeper section of pillars (crux) to the bottom of the left-facing corner. Clip a bolt and move up overhanging rock, then step right to a ledge above the corner. Scratch up the final overhanging wall (no protection) to turf sticks, then up to the trees.

Location 

In the center of the Amphitheater. Locate a left-facing corner in the shale band above the ice. Pick a line in the columns directly below this corner.

Protection 

Good selection of screws plus one bolt. Some stubbie screws are often required for the final columns below the shale band. There's a single bolt at the top of the ice (and it really helps to extend this clip with a permanent 4'-long runner), but after that, there's no adequate protection to the top; a fall from this section is not advised.


Photos of Mate, Spawn, and Die Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower columns of Mate, Spawn, and Die.
The lower columns of Mate, Spawn, and Die.
Rock Climbing Photo: The top columns are often the crux of the route. M...
The top columns are often the crux of the route. M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber near the top of the ice on Mate, Spawn, an...
Climber near the top of the ice on Mate, Spawn, an...

Comments on Mate, Spawn, and Die Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -