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Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruzer Head S 
Crackamite T 
Double Decker T,S 
I'm Your Huckleberry T 
Line of Fire S 
Matchbook T 
No Place To Hide T,S 
Over The Edge S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Will H. on Feb 5, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Matchbook, with Crackamite above.

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Matchbook is the prominent crack on the lower dihedral and can serve as a great approach pitch to Crackamite above. I have seen this route listed at both 5.8 and 5.9. I would personally lean more toward the latter rating, but I am no hardman.

There is a nice mix of wide/OW, hand jams, and face climbing next to the crack. Around 100 feet up, after a last bit of traversing, there is an anchor on the face just below a large, bushy ledge system. Optionally, one can continue onto the ledge - we used an anchor about 25 feet up and to the left.


Far right side in the lower dihedral.


Gear to 4". Bolted anchor.

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Rock Climbing Photo: William williaming
William williaming

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By Lou Cerutti
From: Carlsbad, California
Feb 5, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This was a fun pitch with cool features that serves well to approach the routes leading off grassy ledge, as mentioned above. Not quite worthy of the infamous 5.8+ rating so I'll go with 5.9- bring some gardening tools! Placing gear and fighting the grass while laybacking the wide section seemed to provide most the difficulties.

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