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Masters of the Mid 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Maki Gorchynsky, Scott Moser
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: Scott Moser on Mar 4, 2014  with updates from Gunkswest

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BETA PHOTO: Masters of the Mid. Worth the tour to find it!

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


This wandering but laser-cut two pitch line climbs Yosemite quality granite on the backside of the Crown Jewels formation. It can easily be led in two pitches, and can be rapped in one go with two 60m ropes. Pitch one, 5.9+, ascends a right facing dihedral before working into a crack on the face. Belay in an alcove. Pitch two, 5.10a, follows an obvious zig-zag crack to the right before cutting back left to a ledge and fixed-nut anchor.


To access the route, tour up past the south side of the Munchkin, and follow the base of the Crown Jewels formation as it curves away to the south. The route is on the West aspect of the Crown Jewels, located approximately at 62.686530, -151.222858. It is well worth the time it takes to approach, and fun to check out another valley. Be aware of crevasses on the approach. When you get close, go by the photos. The obvious roof left of the base of the route is visible from a distance.


Light standard rack for the area. Rock is solid and protection isn't hard to find. Fixed nut anchor, webbing may need reinforcement.

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By Richard Shore
Mar 5, 2014

Maybe you could add the Crown Jewels formation to the site as a new area, and put this route there, Scott. This isn't even close to the Plunger, it's nearly 2 miles away.

I don't think any 2 pitch route qualifies for a Grade III rating (or any rating for that matter). Does a 2-pitch route on a 1,000' mountain face even count as an "FA" in Alaska???

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