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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Glen Cilley, 1992
Page Views: 9,938
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 25, 2006  with updates from Vertical Addiction

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (392)
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hillary on a bonsai classic

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Masterpiece is an all-inclusive epitome of Bonsai, as it has steep, juggy, and memorable moves that are not too far over the head of the average climber.

If you have one, clip the first bolt with a long draw (it's easy to back clip here, watch out.) After hauling rails and jugs, climber can be stymied by dead ending sucker holds and an inobvious crux about half way up the climb. If you are scared by the run out directly below the chains you are probably forgetting to stem or jam.


This route is in the thick of the steepest section at Bonsai. The start is distinguished by a smooth and slopey ledge with lots of chalk on it. The first bolt is hidden in a small but obvious left facing alcove. The opening moves traverse out right around the alcove.


Protected by bolts and glue-in eyebolts. Two bolts with Quick Clips for an anchors. (As always, help preserve the Quick Clips by lowering/TRing on your draws when ever possible).
[The 2001 guidebook lists 5 bolts to the top clips, but a 6th bolt may have been added. As always, more draws on your rack is better than too few. COMMENTs suggest a long draw for bolt #1.]

Photos of Masterpiece Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: cassie cruisin
cassie cruisin
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephane on Masterpiece
Stephane on Masterpiece
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleaning the route.
Cleaning the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The juggy and fun opening moves of Masterpiece.  P...
The juggy and fun opening moves of Masterpiece. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Garrity hanging from a low jug on Masterpiece...
Mike Garrity hanging from a low jug on Masterpiece...
Rock Climbing Photo: Not the best photo but it shows the steepness well...
Not the best photo but it shows the steepness well...
Rock Climbing Photo: The moment I realized I needed to reclimb masterpi...
The moment I realized I needed to reclimb masterpi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo taken after the lead! Gives a good visual of...
Photo taken after the lead! Gives a good visual of...

Comments on Masterpiece Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 2, 2015
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Oct 27, 2006

It might be worthwhile to note that the first bolt was added a few years ago. Before that, you had to climb up quite a ways to clip the first bolt. This bold start always felt very un-Rumney-like.
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
May 21, 2007

This is a 4 star route until the last few moves, even if you do stem and jam. Definitely worth doing.
By Tristan Perry
Dec 1, 2007

This is a GREAT climb. I, for one, wish the bolt had never been added to the start. Was a proud way to get aquainted with 5.10 back in the day. Had to climb up for a ways before the first bolt, indeed (seemed way runout!) but it was all on easy ground. Enormous jugs for every handhold. I am saddened by the seemingly pervading notion that all Rumney routes must be "cookie cutter" sport routes with no variance as to the commitment level. As I said, it used to be a prouder tick. Too bad. Nowadays, it's at least average for Rumney!
By M Sprague
From: New England
Dec 3, 2007

I don't really get the added first bolt either. It doesn't really protect much anyway particularly with a sling on it to avoid rope drag, protected great with gear if you chose and was fine as a stick clip if nervous. It would have made more sense to replace the rusty original first bolt. It is a nice route though.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 4, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb, i feel anyone who can climb 5.10 should do this climb, a great route for a first 5.10.
By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Apr 18, 2009

Two bolts were added to this route, the first one and the last one. Near the first bolt there is a left facing crack, a red tri cam fits nice. Near the top another great crack for a 3 inch cam.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Mar 8, 2010

My first barefoot 10a (on toprope), and a great one for it! It's actually not much harder barefoot, cuz you can use your toes to "grab" some of the many horizontal ledges. The stemming moves at the top are a little more saucy too.
By nataliejwong
From: Toronto, Canada
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A fun, challenging and interesting 5.10a. I'm more of a 5.9 climber, but this 5.10a was a really great route to get on if you're progressing to 5.10s. Start from lower left to right through a light overhang section with good jugs. It gets a bit pumpy near the middle section of the overhang, so positioning your feet is important. After the overhang section, the climb isn't as difficult to figure out. Definitely going work this route next time I drop by Rumney in the future.
By Phoebe
May 26, 2012

Peeled off the crux of this before clipping the 3rd bolt yesterday and crashed pretty hard into the wall below, injuring my foot and tailbone. Be careful, it's easy to whip around back into the wall if your belayer takes while you fall, I didn't expect the fall or the crash. Finished the route regardless, fun but tricky on the first go.
By J Meagher
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This thing is just plain awesome! The super fun, juggy, overhanging start delivers the pump that you've been looking for. The crux for me was the big reach between two jugs just below the third bolt (people about 5'5'' or so can clip the third draw before making the big move). I don't really care for the climbing past the overhang, because its pretty much just scrambling on jagged rock, and the runout to the top detracts from what would otherwise be a perfect first 5.10. If you're worried about the runout, you can have a friend who is more comfortable on the route go first and prehang a 4 foot sling off the anchors, which allows you to clip the chains from lower down in the corner. I had to hang it twice, but I will be back to send this on lead in the future :)
By J Meagher
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Finally got around to leading this, even better on lead! just keep a cool head in the corner at the top
By S. Neoh
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Like its neighbors, now fully equipped with fat glue-in bolts. Fun route.

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