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Master Looney 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chuck Buzzard, Jerry Radant, 1984
Page Views: 2,034
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Mar 30, 2006

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One of Smiths best trad routes. Brian cruises pas...

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This unusual Lower Gorge route starts with a 10b crack broken up with horizontal seams leading to a rest in a "cave" inset. From here you clip a bolt and then launch into strenuous roof moves leading to the top.


Arrington Columns (North side of the Crooked River)


Gear to 2 1/2 inches. One bolt protecting the roof, with additional optional gear placements possible above this.

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By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Easy for 11a if you have reach. If you're shorter than maybe 5'6", could be quite hard. Also, along with On The Road, probably the most on-sightable 11 in the lower gorge.
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Apr 17, 2015

To me the first 30' felt like the crux of the route. Weird balance moves, tricky to protect in spots. The roof is just plain fun climbing!

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