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Master Cylinder 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Hendriks & Kelley, May 1983
Page Views: 853
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Mar 6, 2011

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Erik H. leading Master Cylinder, mid-crux

Description 

Start up easy and blocky terrain to the base of the roof/overhang. Place a few handsize pieces in the crack under the roof and pull over it by liebacking around its left side. Surprisingly steep and powerful for the grade. I used a knee-bar here. Shove in a #3 camalot above the roof, and climb up and right on face holds to the first of 3 bolts. Above the first bolt, climb left along a lieback past a streak of white bird-poo to a second bolt. From here, steep face climbing leads up and right past a third bolt to the top.

While clipping the bolts, imagine climbing the upper face without them as was done on the FA! The FA party later added the bolts on toprope to protect what had been a very long (groundfall!) runout

Location 

North side of Cold Springs Dome, along the approach to Makunaima Wall. Descend by scrambing down 3rd class to the east.

Protection 

Single rack of cams to 3", a few long slings, and 3 bolts (1/2") on the upper half. Build your own anchor; be creative.


Photos of Master Cylinder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Master Cylinder 5.9 follows the red line
Master Cylinder 5.9 follows the red line

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By Richard Shore
May 1, 2011

3 ancient bolts replaced with 1/2" X 4-1/2" 5 piece expansion 05/2011
By Unassigned User
May 16, 2012

Just climbed this yesterday... So glad that I was on top rope. Trundled one head sized block under the roof. Be very very very careful of what you pull on/step on. There is almost nowhere underneath for the belayer to hide and there were pieces ranging from baseball sized to beach ball sized that I tapped on and they were ready to come off. Also when pulling the roof I grabbed a transition crimp coming over and the silly thing crumbled sending me swinging and flailing.

With some traffic this would be a amazingly fun climb. Powerful and fun moves through the roof.

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