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Sandworm Rock
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Master & Servant T,TR 
Sandworm T 
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Master & Servant 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Cole and Bruce Morris, 1980's
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Let's play... Master and Servant.

This is an .11d handcrack! In the center of Sandworm rock, look for the crack splitting the steep bulge, widening to OW size while mercifully keeping good hands in the back.

Steep and powerful pulling leads through the wide section before the angle eases. Reach the top on shallow flaring jams stepping right through three vertical slashes.

This could be an amazing climb but for the abysmal rock quality. The large sharp razor grains are bad enough... and then they move. The grit is showering off the inside of the crack as you jam on it. Jamming on the moving razors is a big threat to your skin. Heavy taping advised lest you risk having to take double digit rest days for skin regeneration.

It's a shame, this could clean into a huge classic, but I fear the rock is just too lousy and it will always be unpleasant.


Sandworm Rock, center. Look for the steep handcrack out the bulge.


Tape and a toprope. (two bolts on top)

It's possible to lead this route with 2-4" cams, but it's an easy toprope and the rock quality is a big deterrent to the lead. The 2000 ed of the Vogel guide lists it as a TR, so it's perhaps never been led?

Use of old and/or fat rope advised. The top rounds off and falls will give your rope a big grind over very rough rock.

Comments on Master & Servant Add Comment
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By scole
From: Joshua tree
May 10, 2013

I lead this route on the first ascent with Bruce Morris back in the 80's
By dickcilley
May 5, 2015

Whats with the crack on the right?
By Russ Walling
May 12, 2015

So there is sorta 3 routes on that face... the dike, a thin to hands grainy crack, and then a hands to fist grainy crack. Which one is Master and Servant? I'm thinking it is the middle of the three routes. What say you??
By C Miller
From: CA
May 12, 2015

The description in the Bartlett guide (Rock Climbs of Central Joshua Tree) reads "This is the second crack right of Sandworm, overhanging 1-1/4" leading into a flare."
By dickcilley
May 15, 2015

Did this one yesterday.Thought it was great . 4 stars
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 15, 2015

It rivals The Big Todd in radness. Did you try the other crack?
By dickcilley
May 19, 2015

The other crack will be really hard.

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