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Massa Temps Sense Piano S 
S'ha de Badar S 

Massa Temps Sense Piano 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 163
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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Entering the business on Massa Temps Sense Piano.

Description 

This leaning dihedral crack offers great stone and cerebral moves, but its not the sort of thing most folks would fly around the globe for. The climbing is characterized by challenging stemming, with a few harrowing palming moves. Unfortunately there are some reachy moves at the top that detract a bit from the experience.

Make easy runout moves to the first bolt, then move right to a tough bit around the 2nd bolt. A brief rest leads to some shallow pockets on the left face, then an insecure palming stretch just below the arching roof. Traverse left under the roof along a big horizontal rail, then work up the open book to a large pod. Make a huge span from the pod to reach easier ground.

Location 

At the far right end of Can Gan Dionis, climbing the stunning orange left-facing dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts to 2BA. The first bolt is rather high so a stick clip is advised.


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