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(5) Jungle Land
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Bush Doctor T 
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Masquerade  T 
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YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Watts 1984
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Sep 9, 2015

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This route is the hardest route at Smith with zero fixed lead gear. First climbed by Alan Watts during a breakout 5 month period where he went from FA'ing 12c to 13c, Masquerade has mostly sat forgotten as just another sandbagged thin crack, but the movement, position, and protection of the climb are nothing less than perfect.

Start off with some technical stemming off the ledge. A brief shake leads to an amazing crux on 'make-believe' holds. A complete rest after the crux allows you to remain fresh for the finishing tips and finger crack that stays on you until you clip the chains.


In Jungleland, keep going until you reach a large rock to stage gear on and a bolted column, then look for the crack in the dihedral.


Pro to #4 Metolius, offset micro nuts key.

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 9, 2015

I'm not surprised to see the suggested difficultly jump by two letters... AW certainly was rocketing through the grades when this was established- during those rare and sweet times everything feels easy;)

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