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Mashed Bananas 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 98'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Alex Weber on Jul 20, 2014

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Description 

Scamper up a ledge. Next do some jamming in this big crack. You have to shove your right arm way in to get one good hand jam, while the left side of your body sort of hugs the wall and grabs as some flared crack. Then you shimmy up as best you can to a ledge, which you awkwardly mantle. From here it's a bunch of jamming (hands and fists) with some crimps every now and then when you need 'em. Eventually you can layback - sort of - and get into the proper chimney section. Chimney up, then turn around, then it's squeeze chimney. After that you get on the face and somehow get to the top. Skinnier short people may find this last section easier.

Protection 

Gear to 5". Takes medium gear in the cracks deep inside. Protects decently. Doubles from 1" to 4" for sure.
Bolts at the very top (left and over lip).
To set a top rope, I would set up an anchor from the anchor bolts (perpendicular) and have the rope go through the hole in the roof.


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