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5. The Beard
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Breakneck TR 
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Directe de la Momie TR 
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Fiddlers Elbow TR 
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Louse, The TR 
Masada Lite TR 
Nose Hair TR 
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Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 
Stubbl TR 
Tick, The TR 

Masada Lite 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: kenr on Jun 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The Beard : SE face of L boulder overview of route...


Link-up of interesting moves. Too bad it requires Trad gear to set up top-rope.

The obvious direct line up the crack in the center of the SouthEast face was listed in the 2011 print guidebook as a project ("Masada"), but no claim that it's been sent yet - (then we could remove the "Lite" from the route name).

Climb up out from the big corner (more difficult but less fun if do not use any hold on L side of arete). Next up the right side of arete. Then (optionally using one hold on left side of arete) step Right to obvious crack in center of SouthEast face. Finish Straight to the top.

warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


On the Left boulder, at the big corner below the obvious arete between the South face and the SouthEast face.

- - > see on this route photo


Top-Rope? Difficult to set up top anchor in a way that avoids a dangerous sideways swing if the climber falls. Most likely requires Trad protection gear, perhaps medium-size cams (also perhaps medium-large stopper might help).

To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos of Masada Lite Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Beard - overview of routes: A. Stubbl B. The T...
BETA PHOTO: The Beard - overview of routes: A. Stubbl B. The T...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Beard - SW + ENE face of L boulder  and WSW fa...
BETA PHOTO: The Beard - SW + ENE face of L boulder and WSW fa...

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By jon crefeld
Nov 21, 2016

Nice name Ken!

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