Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Beard
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breakneck TR 
Col de Lui d'Aï TR 
Directe de la Momie TR 
Extrême Bec TR 
Fiddlers Elbow TR 
Inner Cheek TR 
Iron Bridge TR 
Louse, The TR 
Masada Lite TR 
Nose Hair TR 
Rough Skin TR 
Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 
Stubbl TR 
Tick, The TR 

Masada Lite 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: kenr on Jun 18, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Beard - SW + ENE face of L boulder and WSW fa...

Description 

Link-up of interesting moves. Too bad it requires Trad gear to set up top-rope.

The obvious direct line up the crack in the center of the SouthEast face was listed in the 2011 print guidebook as a project ("Masada"), but no claim that it's been sent yet - (then we could remove the "Lite" from the route name).

Climb up out from the big corner (more difficult but less fun if do not use any hold on L side of arete). Next up the right side of arete. Then (optionally using one hold on left side of arete) step Right to obvious crack in center of SouthEast face. Finish Straight to the top.

warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.

Location 

On the Left boulder, at the big corner below the obvious arete between the South face and the SouthEast face.

- - > see on this route photo

Protection 

Top-Rope? Difficult to set up top anchor in a way that avoids a dangerous sideways swing if the climber falls. Most likely requires Trad protection gear, perhaps medium-size cams (also perhaps medium-large stopper might help).

To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


Comments on Masada Lite Add Comment
Show which comments
By jon crefeld
Nov 21, 2016

Nice name Ken!