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Mary's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,913
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on May 6, 2008

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This is a fun route with mostly easy climbing and two crux sections, one down low and the second up high on the second pitch.

Start in the same area as the Kindergarten Cracks. This is defined by a large right-facing corner, then a smaller right-facing corner to its right.

Mary's Crack starts in the next crack system to the right of these 2 corners, just left of the headwall at the base of the rock.

1) Climb the steep hand crack and continue up the slab above, aiming for the slot which goes through the upper headwall/roof at a large left-facing corner. Belay at the base of the corner with a large horn which can be slung, or continue up the slab to a small pedestal and belay off cams right below the roof. (5.8, 160 feet)

2) Crank through the slot with good feet and good jams, and continue easily to the top. The roof is well-protected with a #2 and #4 Camalot. (5.8, 100 feet)

Descend by walking off to the West.


Standard to light rack, up to a #4 Camalot.

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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Nov 5, 2009

We weren't sure where to go on the second pitch so we tried the left crack of the two cracks in the middle of the steep headwall about 40' left of the correct corner for Mary's second pitch. It was quite hard but fun. Awkward start to get into crack system, then good buckets to place gear and then a couple hard finger/hand jams through the steep short crack above. Anyone know what this is? I would say hard 9 - 10b. I'm not good at judging this type of climbing as I am just no good at it...
From: Portlandia, OR
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After finishing up with the first pitch, look straight up and slightly to the right for the obvious wide crack going up into a roof. The crack is hell to get into with a shoulder sling and wants to swallow #4's so dont place it too deep. Step up onto a large edge against the right side of the crack and inch up until the edge tapers off. Jam your left knee in the crack, stepping on the angled chockstones inside, and throw for a perfect hand jam at the apex of the crack. Use the jam to mantel onto the right edge and you got the one-move wonder down. Belay off the cracks right above this or head to the summit and sling a small tree.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun climb, not very sustained. First pitch is a fun cruise with nice moves and a ton of rests between moves, then 4th class slabby cracks to the belay. Second pitch you go up and through the entertainment. Squirming up that thing is precious but quite easy due to edges, jams, and chockstones. Maybe one or two true wide moves. Easy fun route, not sure why this thing isn't mobbed all the time like Kindergarden Crack is
By david krivan
From: truckee
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Vertical hand crack at beginning of first pitch, good climbing, a couple rests, easy gear placements, but does have a couple strenuous moves. 5.8 seems fair. Not a giveaway at 5.8 though. Second pitch, obvious offwidth crack/corner: Could use a 4 or 5 here, but I was able to protect it no problem with #3 and smaller. It is very awkward, but does have a couple good finger and hand jams that help out. The really bomber hand jam in the offwidth is way up very high, so a lot of groveling and grunting needs to happen before you get there. I felt solid 5.9 was totally fair for this 15 foot section, unless you are some kind of offwidth master.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 4, 2012

For me it's a solo except for the 15 feet of awkward grovelling to get through the roof. I would agree that for me it seemed solid 5.9. Perhaps with some beta I missed it could be easier, but I had trouble reaching the key jam up high and just squirmed up a fraction of an inch at a time till I could reach it. then of course it's over. I understand why this climb is not mobbed. My partner couldn't do it on toprope even with a very healthy assist.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jul 15, 2013

i think ski's description is spot on, except there's no need for a knee jam. it's possible to just stand high on a sloper/good foot hold with the left foot (in the fat crack), right foot goes on the top of the curved rail on the right face. even the gazelle (at 5'6") was able to reach the solid (left) hand jam on top of the fat crack. once you've got that it's over, just swing the right foot onto the right, sloping ledge. no groveling involved at any point! just a nice 5.8 roof problem. this climb deserves at least 3 stars! let's not downrate aesthetics just because it's 'fat'!
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jan 29, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After having done this climb clean multiple times I say listen to SKI and old5ten. #1 down low, #4 up high in the crack, put your back into the rock on the chimney's left side, and work those feet out on the face. Remember, its all about the feet!
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Nov 13, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Protected the wide-move crux with a #1 and 0.4. No wide gear is needed because of the small hand crack on the right face. Fun and awkward!
By reese lieberman
Feb 19, 2017

Highly recommend the solo.

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