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Maryland Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.3003, -76.6296 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 297,883
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Sep 20, 2007  with updates from Christopher Peterson and 1 more
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Description 

From the Chesapeake Bay to the hills beyond Hagerstown there is climbing to be found in Maryland, although most of the climbing can be found in central Maryland.

Rock State Park, Carderock, A-Rock, and other various climbing locations are generally small, short but have beautiful setting and fun moves. Finding a local that knows where the classics are is definitely the crux of Maryland climbing.

Indoors gyms are extremely common, generally huge, and well-kept.

Getting There 

Maryland is a state, there are only 50, learn them know them, and even though the East coast states are small we have fierce devotion to our repective home states so don't say "oh! that is one of the small ones over by..." if you want to make friends.

Guidebooks 

Eric Horst's Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland does the best job of getting you from area to area and helping you to find the routes.

Tim Toula's aging Rock and Road does a decent job giving you an idea of what to expect out of Maryland climbing

Climb Maryland! by Mark "Indy" Kochte is out of print, but copies can be found and are a valuable guide to the state's climbing opportunities.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

891 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',66],['3 Stars',289],['2 Stars',374],['1 Star',95],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',158],['5.7',62],['5.8',73],['5.9',81],['5.10',113],['5.11',44],['5.12',19],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',86],['V2-3',52],['V4-5',82],['V6-7',33],['V8-9',11],['V10-11',4],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Maryland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maryland:
Big Dipper   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 20'   Harper's Ferry : Highlands
Easy Layback   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     TR, 1 pitch, 35'   Carderock
A Flake Called Lee   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
'D' Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   Maryland Heights, MD : Sign Wall
Trudie's Terror   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Carderock
Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
Vertical   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 70'   Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
Sterling's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 45'   Carderock
Jan's Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Carderock
Triple A   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Carderock
Butterfingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 30'   Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
Hard Up Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   Maryland Heights, MD : Sign Wall
Blue Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Patapsco State Park : Ilchester
Strawberry Jam   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Rocks State Park : Pinnacle
Butterfly   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Carderock
Breakaway left   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
Herbie's Horror   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 25'   Carderock
Breakaway Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
Black Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Annapolis Rock : The South End
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Maryland

Featured Route For Maryland
Rock Climbing Photo: East Side of the Starlight Boulder

Orion's Belt V2+ 5+  Maryland : Harper's Ferry : Highlands
sit start at the jug on the left side of the mouth of the cave on the east side of the Starlight Boulder. On this mini arete with a nice starting jug angle up left to roll out into a mantle. Great moves, great holds....[more]   Browse More Classics in Maryland

Photos of Maryland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left fork rocks in the Frederick watershed.
Left fork rocks in the Frederick watershed.
Rock Climbing Photo: Frederick Watershed - "Still Life" bould...
Frederick Watershed - "Still Life" bould...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Frederick Watershed - "Gem Arete"
North Frederick Watershed - "Gem Arete"
Rock Climbing Photo: North Frederick Watershed - "Proud Roof"
North Frederick Watershed - "Proud Roof"
Rock Climbing Photo: North Frederick Watershed
North Frederick Watershed
Rock Climbing Photo: North Frederick Watershed
North Frederick Watershed
Rock Climbing Photo: Frederick Watershed - "Still Life" bould...
Frederick Watershed - "Still Life" bould...
Rock Climbing Photo: Maryland
Maryland

Comments on Maryland Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Mu.
From: hagerstown
Oct 9, 2007
For a better description of Maryland Climbing check out Indy's Climb Maryland book. Here is the link for amazon.com.
amazon.com/Climb-Maryland-Mark...
It is more thorough than any other guide. Maryland, when you actually go looking has a lot of climbable rock, you just need to get out there and find it.
By John Kelbel
From: Eldersburg, Maryland
Feb 24, 2010
For Rock locations in Patapsco State Park and the west side of Baltimore check out patapscorock.blogspot.com
By Robin Close
From: Columbia, Maryland
Mar 3, 2012
If anyone's interested in checking out videos of Maryland bouldering, I've added a video page to my blog with links to all that I could find, with the exception of a few from areas with questionable access. To access the page, go to robinclose.blogspot.com and click on the "Maryland Bouldering Videos" tab at the top. I also post regularly about any climbing that I do, and have compiled a lot of Northwest Branch bouldering information under the "Northwest Branch" tab. Clicking on the names below the boulder photos will take you to pages with more information about the cliimbs on each.

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