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Mary Jane 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jamison Coin
Season: If you can inhale, get on it!
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: BBQ on Apr 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Reggie climbs up Mary Jane, 5.11b. The Danks. Spea...

I'm In Love With Mary Jane! 

This route is nothing more than a thugfest of huge moves to huge holds yet legitimately owns the distinction of being the pumpiest 5.11 in Spearfish canyon. Mary Jane is blonde, bullet proof, overhung as hell, and tends to fight back with every fiber of her stony soul.

This climb is one of the easier routes to locate but one of the hardest to get up. Expect to feel breathless during those big reaches to huge pockets on pumpy, overhung terrain that gets in your face and never lets up. Enjoy a hard start that requires you to navigate a minefield of what appear to be big holds that get slopey and greasy if you don't keep moving.

Pull a roof and take a puff! You might get one rest at the fifth bolt before you endure and enjoy a series of sick and not as slick jugs and huge holds on hopelessly overhung terrain till the anchors. Light this one up and be prepared to inhale!

At The Danks according to Cronin's new guidebook 

Middle-most route at the The Upper Danks. It's probably easier to walk down canyon on the pavement to get there. Take the main trail that starts 420 feet down the highway from the parking lot.


Bring a dozen quickdraws and a willingness to take a beatdown.

Photos of Mary Jane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary Jane, 5.11b.  The Danks, Spearfish Canyon.
Mary Jane, 5.11b. The Danks, Spearfish Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Reggie prepares to onsight Mary Jane, 5.11b. Onsig...
Reggie prepares to onsight Mary Jane, 5.11b. Onsig...
Rock Climbing Photo: The pumpiest 11b on Earth, man...
The pumpiest 11b on Earth, man...

Comments on Mary Jane Add Comment
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By Franck Vee
Jul 25, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Amazing 11b - not really a single hard move, it's all about the pump. If you're going for the onsight, then get ready to just plow through as fast/efficiently as you can and hope your forearms can take the abuse.

If just looking for 11s to get into the grade, this is a great candidate as there are no stopper moves - if you take at any point you won't find it that hard at all.

Fun, sustained, even climb, must do at this wall.

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