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Martinez Mind Melter 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Aug 12 08 Mike Bird Greg Martinez Laura Dewey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,990
Submitted By: Greg Martinez on Aug 12, 2008

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Bobby Gray on Martinez Mind Melter.

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  • Description 

    half way


    left of sinistar


    15 Bolts & chains 60 meter rope only tie knot in end of rope when lowering

    Photos of Martinez Mind Melter Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: BOBBY GRAY MINDMELTING
    Rock Climbing Photo: BOBBY GRAY HIGH IN THE SKY
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bobby Gray Mind Melting.
    Bobby Gray Mind Melting.

    Comments on Martinez Mind Melter Add Comment
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    By JimG
    Sep 5, 2008
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Long, fun. Relatively clean and solid rock for a newer route. A 60M gets you up and down from a belay stance on that little ledge you scramble up to. It seems to me that a belay bolt up on that ledge, maybe between this route and Sinistar, would be handy. When climbing Sinistar I have belayed off the first bolt on that route, but that bolt looks like it has seen better days. Just a thought; anyone else like that idea?
    By Ryan Stott
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Aug 14, 2010
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    This is a really fun climb. The length of this climb is what makes the redpoint tricky. The crux is the move at the little roof. I strongly disagree with the comment about this being a clean climb. There is a LOT of loose rock. Luckily, it is mostly small stuff, but a helmet would be a great idea. More traffic will clean up this area, and make it even better.

    This climb gets shady faster in the late summer afternoons, which can feel awesome.

    --Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites.
    By Alan Avedovech
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Oct 14, 2010
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Long and Sweet! The length of this climb definitely the hardest part, then the roof is a little tricky too. The rock quality seemed all right for most of the climb with only 2 questionable sections (slippery and sandy) but you can work through them quickly. All in all this is one of the best climbs at East Hellgate.
    By Spencer Weiler
    From: Salt Lake city
    Apr 11, 2012

    An R rating Ryan? Whew, go climb further down canyon my friend. This climb is not R. It is the opposite of R. It is S, for "sewed" up. It has bolts every 5 feet. I skipped bolts on accident as I couldn't believe another one could be so close. Nevertheless, a brilliant climb.
    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    May 22, 2012
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    So many bolts ... so little time. If you think this is runout, then top roping must be super intense for you.

    Not pumpy. The crux at the roof is pretty hard to read, but is the only move on the climb at the 10+ grade. The rest is about 10a.

    Compliments to Grego.

    60m is fine to get you all the way back to the belay. But do tie knots in the ends of your rope.
    By John Steiger
    Jun 8, 2012
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Not to pile on, but this is very safe (gym-style bolting), and the rock is good by Hellgate standards – no reason not to get on it. For those disinclined to buy the IME photocopies, this is the far left line of bolts on the south face of Melting Mud, just left of Sinistar, and before the trail heads west and around the buttress bearing Devil’s Advocate. The rest of the climbs on Melting Mud can be located by using the MP sorter (L to R) and correlating the routes with the bolt lines.
    By BobGray
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jul 9, 2012
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Lol really 5.10R?????
    By ddriver
    From: SLC
    Aug 10, 2015

    Really clean now.
    By JSaarela
    From: Park City
    Aug 13, 2015
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    One of my new favorites, likely mostly due to its length. Movement and holds were fun, very well-protected (especially on the crux roof where you can clip the lip from a nice ledge below the roof).

    Rock quality must have really improved, as it seemed pretty solid. A few tiny loose pebbles on some of the ledges, but I would by no means call it "dirty."

    I used a 70m rope (rappelled from center mark) with only a couple meters to spare on each strand. Tie those knots and watch the ends of your rope.

    Will definitely be back for the RP

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